Most of the major components (gearbox excepted) listed on the V621/7 form don't have serial numbers so it would be hard to know if they were original or not.

[Q) As chassis strengthening is allowed, are we correct in assuming that additional crossmembers would also be allowed? A) It is important that the original chassis structure is retained unmodified, and while it is acceptable to strengthen areas and include additional brackets or crossmembers, It would be limited to additions within the existing chassis frame structure. Additional chassis structures, i.e. extending the outward parameters of the original chassis structure would be considered a modification.]

Surely once the chassis' built up and rolling then all of the major components, gearbox, steering, axles etc will come from the same chassis won't it? You've just got to put the same reg number down for all of them haven't you? Just register it your name first.

If you're using the original unmodified chassis and two major components from it you'll keep the original reg and in theory just need a Vehicle Identity Check to get it properly registered.


https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-registration/kitconverted-vehicles

OK I see where you're coming from...

So given Merscury's earlier post and his Q&A's to DVLA (albeit 8 years ago), specifically -

Q) As chassis strengthening is allowed, are we correct in assuming that additional crossmembers would also be allowed?
A) It is important that the original chassis structure is retained unmodified, and while it is acceptable to strengthen areas and include additional brackets or crossmembers, It would be limited to additions within the existing chassis frame structure. Additional chassis structures, i.e. extending the outward parameters of the original chassis structure would be considered a modification.

This is essentially what I'm planning on doing - I'm not cutting, lengthening, shortening or widening any part of the original floor pan or its structural elements. I'm planning on adding additional stiffening and reinforcement WITHOUT changing the basic structure. If I set my mind to it, I could actually bolt my planned additions to the floor pan so it could be removed if necessary.

Are we saying that if I go down this route I could actually put a buggy on the road WITHOUT having to go down the IVA route (as it stands)?

If it's LWB with chassis that isn't classed as being modified, you should be able to go down the V627/1 route with all major components coming from the donor vehicle you should be able to do it without an IVA. You just have hope that whoevers desk at the DVLA the paperwork lands on understands what to do

If it's LWB with chassis that isn't classed as being modified, you should be able to go down the V627/1 route with all major components coming from the donor vehicle you should be able to do it without an IVA. You just have hope that whoevers desk at the DVLA the paperwork lands on understands what to do

A covering letter quoting their own rules and regulations back at them should help. The last lab that I built needed inspecting by a DVLA engineer at a VOSA (now DVSA) test centre but this was a joke, I ended up telling him what needed inspecting after he'd finished looking under the front for the engine.

DVLA inspections are now farmed out to a company called SGS.

If it's LWB with chassis that isn't classed as being modified, you should be able to go down the V627/1 route with all major components coming from the donor vehicle you should be able to do it without an IVA. You just have hope that whoevers desk at the DVLA the paperwork lands on understands what to do

OK, that sounds promising...I'm still going to build my reinforcement frame though, as I said if need be I can easily put the floor pan back to standard if I change my mind later on.

That's what I love about this forum, so much to learn 

What body are you planning to use? Whichever you go for it'll drive you mad as they tended to be designed by artists rather than engineers so don't expect anything to be symmetrical in any way! Except for the Doon of course!

I'm leaning towards a Doon, they seem well made with some thoughtful touches, and you seem to get a lot of kit for your money.

I like the Doon - But I suppose I would 

Also I strengthened my old LWB along the channels and across the fronts and rear, but that was old school camera and film that you had to get developed :-)

I'll try and find some photos but can't promise as only recently moved house so they are thgere somewhere. 

Chad

To be honest if your chassis still has original thickness floors and if you're using a good quality shell (which all new ones seem to be these days) you don't need to worry too much about extra strength, some square tube under the side channels and some in the seat mount areas and you'll be fine. Bracing in the floor areas will add very little torsional strength (which is what LWB cars can lack) or crash protection anyway, you'll need a nice 6 point cage with side bars to sort that out.

To be honest if your chassis still has original thickness floors and if you're using a good quality shell (which all new ones seem to be these days) you don't need to worry too much about extra strength, some square tube under the side channels and some in the seat mount areas and you'll be fine. Bracing in the floor areas will add very little torsional strength (which is what LWB cars can lack) or crash protection anyway, you'll need a nice 6 point cage with side bars to sort that out.

Brilliant, thanks for that 

Sorry for the lack of updates guys, I was going to do some more work on this at the weekend but unfortunately I put my back out again so it's on hold for the duration 

Poor you! Been there! Take it easy!

Right, this was as far as I'd got about three weeks ago before my back gave out -



I'd fabricated the front "cross-member" (nearest the camera) and tacked it into place so that it sits on the underside of the floor pan, more or less where the Napoleon's hat piece sits; then I added the two long members which run up either side of the tunnel and will form the "spine" of the frame.

Now I'd got myself back in the land of the living, the next job was to add some plates which will form the inboard rear seat mount points and help secure the frame to the pan - these are 6mm thick laser cut pieces with standard M12 nut welded over the corresponding hole. The magnetic clamps are worth their weight if you're going to be doing a lot of fabbing!!



Once the plates were welded into position, I drilled through the floor pans (which I suspect are not original) and loosely fitted the M12 10.9 flange bolts which will hold the seat mounts in position, just to help keep things in alignment. 25mm mild steel box section is surprisingly flexible in long lengths!

.

More to follow...