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September 19, 2020, 01:41:58 PM

Show Posts - PhillipM

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Messages - PhillipM

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I think that's the only time I've seen someone recommend the swing axle for offroad over the semi-trailing arms.
 As for the US, I'd say apart from the regulation-restricted cars, 95% of their bajas, rails and buggies are on trailing arms, not swing axle.

Beach Buggy Engine and Exhaust Help / Re: Oil.
« on: May 22, 2019, 12:43:04 PM »
Because silicone sealants need a certain minimum bondline thickness, but if you buy decent gasketing silicone it already has fillers in to control the bondline minimum thickness anyway.
 Or just use anerobic surface sealants like modern stuff and don't worry about it, it's much better.

Beach Buggy Engine and Exhaust Help / Re: Oil.
« on: May 19, 2019, 01:50:19 AM »
You shouldn't have any more leaks with a synthetic than you should with a mineral oil of the same weight, less in fact as the syth will contain less low-weight fractions and have a higher HTHS

Beach Buggy Engine and Exhaust Help / Re: Oil.
« on: May 18, 2019, 01:53:47 PM »
Not sure if there is an exact science to this but hi zinc oil is a must.
You need an oil that is designed to heat up, or make heat transfer easy. Many modern oils especially synthetic are designed to stay cool. That is a definate no no for air cooled. It is the oil that needs to heat up to carry the heat to the oil coolers to then easily get rid of it to the air. Much like the blood in our veins hopefully easily oxygenates when it passes through the lungs and then equally easily passes that o2 to our organs and mussels where it is converted.

10w 40 means the oil viscosity is equivalent to sae 10 when cold the W stands for winter, equivalent to sae 40 oil when hot. I used to use sae 30 in my engines single grade.

I hope this helps a bit.

Whilst hi-zinc oil is definately a given, the reason modern synthetic oils stay cooler is because they are much more efficient at transfering heat away from hot spots - which is exactly what you want.

Beach Buggy General Help / Re: Cleaning Crud off old parts.
« on: May 14, 2019, 05:28:09 PM »
I like Surfex HD - seems to work much better than the old stuff, as said above a lot of the old brand names have been neutered these days.

Members Buggies / Re: A mucky one - racing rail.
« on: May 09, 2019, 03:39:25 PM »
Went overkill on the damper adjusters, and decided to fit them to the front as well, that removes the hydraulic interlink for the moment but that will go back on with the new front end later on instead.

In the meantime, I've been told that people who put close up photographs on the internet of their abnormally long, stiff shafts generally get quite lot of people looking at them.
 So here it is, all 50-odd inches:

(Now, if we stopped messing around fixing competitors cars and got on with our own I might have more interesting posts to make...but Eddy's still finishing the clamps for the front dampers and I've got a couple of coil plugs to change, which are even more boring)

Members Buggies / Re: A mucky one - racing rail.
« on: April 21, 2019, 02:03:15 AM »
Shock adjuster housings roughed out, everything seems to work okay, needed a little fine tuning for o-ring clearances:

Anyway, back on the lathe for a debur, tweak the clearances and make it slightly less clunky looking:

And the final article, I might shorten it slightly yet as I found some smaller fittings for the rear end:

Next stop, some new o-rings, reassemble and put them back on the car. Doesn't sit very well with only one set of rear dampers and springs on :D

Members Buggies / Re: A mucky one - racing rail.
« on: April 06, 2019, 10:37:37 PM »
Colour coded driveshafts?
 Yes, not content with being the fashion leaders with colour-coded brakepads, we're now forging the way for the Next Hot Thing™ of 2019 - colour coded driveshafts, you saw them here first:

And a quick picture to show how well the combination of the Spiralox circlips and the counterbored CV stars work - there's no way in hell it's knocking those circlips off!

Members Buggies / Re: A mucky one - racing rail.
« on: April 03, 2019, 10:47:36 PM »
I know, I said I wouldn't post another one, and that hopefully the next video would be it on it's wheels outside, but I just wanted to finish things off on the mapping side before we started dropping oil, taking bits off for a spanner check and loctite session, etc.....plus, I found this shiny red button - and, well, you've got to press a shiny red button - it's the rules. Everybody knows that.


And I treated you to a different camera angle for the first 20 seconds - see, now it's boring video 𝑓𝑟𝑜𝑚 𝑎 𝑑𝑖𝑓𝑓𝑒𝑟𝑒𝑛𝑡 𝑎𝑛𝑔𝑙𝑒 - so that's fine.

Members Buggies / Re: A mucky one - racing rail.
« on: April 01, 2019, 07:36:51 PM »
Yep, still sat here making it go 'brrrummm' - re-timed the engine in since the other day, perked it up a bit. Next stop, get the bloody thing moving again so we can have a more interesting video....

A few pops for good measure (I was testing whether it needed some more fuel cut when you lift the throttle slightly....yes, yes it does... :D )


Members Buggies / Re: A mucky one - racing rail.
« on: March 31, 2019, 08:31:45 PM »
Timed it back in again today because, as I thought earlier, it was off a bit from the previous issues....times the above video by two for how rude it sounds now!
 I got the vast majority of the low down fuelling and timing tweaked a lot closer too as the cold start settings yesterday turned out to be nigh-on perfect - so now there's no more stumbling - it certainly picks up on the throttle now!

 My grin is getting bigger by the day :D

Members Buggies / Re: A mucky one - racing rail.
« on: March 31, 2019, 01:40:04 PM »
Yes, they do, 98db off to one side or 105db from behind the car.

I think we should be okay with the silencer - I built the internals myself - but not if all the packing is gone before the first race  ;D

Members Buggies / Re: A mucky one - racing rail.
« on: March 30, 2019, 09:10:45 PM »
Thought I'd let you at least hear a couple of thousand revs:


Throttle response is a little slow currently, but I think it's mainly down to the idle mapping running a bit lean - it stumbles a touch when you first touch the throttle from 1k.
I need to check my changes to the cold start settings I've been making today when she cools off enough, and then I can hopefully richen the idle area and lean the main map out a bit to perk it up.
Got the coils/injectors back up and running in sequential mode as I turned everything to dumb group fire when diagnosing, so timed in the cam trigger wheel and I've done a bit of work on the low-load transients so it picks up nice and cleanly everywhere bar around idle.

Need to get it to the dyno then to get it spot on - it's deliberately tuned on the rich side with a bit of timing pulled at the minute to protect it until then - but basically everything else is setup in the map ready to go.
I'm not sure it'll have any exhaust packing left by then though, it's covered the workshop in it...I got a bit more enthusiastic with the throttle later on as I got it a bit crisper

Members Buggies / Re: A mucky one - racing rail.
« on: March 28, 2019, 03:20:08 PM »
Seems a shame to go back to the old front end when the new ones were finished mocked up and are mid fabrication for the actual ones, but screw it, back to the old we go - it can have an upgrade after the dyno instead...

Members Buggies / Re: A mucky one - racing rail.
« on: March 25, 2019, 11:19:12 PM »
And they adapt with just a few fittings and some internals changes to work with the smaller front shocks, sorted :D

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