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July 02, 2020, 09:39:53 AM

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Messages - Paul1953

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Beach Buggy Engine and Exhaust Help / Re: Carb
« on: June 30, 2020, 09:45:49 AM »
particularly farmer Rob for his simple instructions. 

Excellent news Deb.  Rob has come to my rescue twice now... ;-)up

Beach Buggy Engine and Exhaust Help / Re: Carb
« on: June 29, 2020, 08:07:03 PM »
Deb... this just in addition to what the other lads have said......  Engine tuning is a relatively easy thing when you are familiar with the steps...

I would try to find someone you can take the buggy to, or have them come to you , who is familiar with the old school, non ecu controlled engines.

There is a specific path to follow.... This is first ensure that the valve clearances are correctly set on all 4 cylinders. Then and only after the valve gap setting is correct the timing needs to be adjusted at first to a manual position by moving the distributor and finally by timing light shone on the pulley at the notch in pulley rim. When this is done the carburretor is adjusted for petrol\air mix ratio . (Big screw in carb side) and the idling set with engine hot with the small screw next to the big one. An auto choke adjustment is simply and just needs the choke body rotating correctly. (I know you have manual choke). If the carb is a solex 34pict 3 then there are sections on the valve gapping\timing\carb set up and auto choke set up in the Haynes manual. (These are about 14 quid on ebay).   Long, long time since I used anyone for a crypton tune set up .. it`s really a case of does the operator really understand an ancient engine thoroughly. Engines built way before most of the young men about. 

(I have a view in that the only way to get a type 1 engine to run really smoothly as it did in the beetle days is for the carb to have good pre heating  ie a red hot pipe. Hot air from the exhaust to the original style air filter and a unworn distributor and carburretor. This does not mean you should not try to get the best out of what you find in a buggy). Keep at it and good luck  ;-)up

Beach Buggy Engine and Exhaust Help / Re: Carb
« on: June 27, 2020, 04:37:16 PM »
Step cam needed deb. Never come across this piece missing before and so have not seen a source of spares. Give megabug a ring. The lads might be able to help. When you have this cam back in place remember the screw is not used for setting idle speed. The idle is set by adjusting the smaller of the two screws in the side of carb. (Left hand side as you look at engine). The choke body is turned to correctly position the choke butterfly. The screw at the stepped cam is set to be not quite touching the cam step when the engine is hot.

Beach Buggy IVA / SVA Help / Re: V5 Description
« on: June 27, 2020, 04:29:36 PM »
The cost of iva certification Mark was charging back when I last visited in 2016 was 2000. No roll bar or standard windscreen fitted for this compliance. Marks new website still shows "under construction". 

Newbie Welcome Area / Re: Hello from me
« on: June 27, 2020, 04:18:04 PM »
it`s a hi from me   ;-)up

Beach Buggy IVA / SVA Help / Re: V5 Description
« on: June 25, 2020, 05:50:39 PM »
but I cannot find them anywhere online,

The original Flatlands website is no longer in existance having been withdrawn as Mark is no longer providing beach buggies and also stainless tubular parts. I don`t know if he has any remaining buggy parts as stock nor if he remains involved in parts sale. If you google "flatlands
 engineering you will see a "new" website that is currently "under construction".

Persevere if calling Mark by phone. He has never been easy to contact.  ;D

Newbie Welcome Area / Re: Hello everyone
« on: June 22, 2020, 08:48:08 PM »
It`s a hi from me  ;-)up ;-)up

Beach Buggy Engine and Exhaust Help / Re: corvair power
« on: June 16, 2020, 06:56:05 PM »
These cars\engines are available... Standard covair flat six doesn`t have as much hp as you may expect. They uprated with the "corvair spyder" by adding a turbocharger. This gave 150 bhp. However this is fairly ancient tech so no waste gate and no electronics for control so it was put your foot down, wait for it to wind up and hang on to the steering wheel..  Coming out of a corner with foot to the metal... well   ;D ;D ;D

Toyz For Sale / Re: 2x Franklin mint buggys for sale.
« on: June 15, 2020, 06:44:27 PM »
The last one I saw on ebay with surf board and box went for 180... ;-)up ;-)up

Beach Buggy IVA / SVA Help / Re: IVA Conundrum maybe?
« on: June 14, 2020, 04:42:31 PM »
Thats correct. Once a Q plate always a Q plate ... This is per the .gov rulings. If anyone knows of a case where this has been overcome they will let you know.

Beach Buggy Rolling Chassis Help / Re: steering box location
« on: June 12, 2020, 10:09:41 AM »
As Paul said.
The most important thing is that the pitman arm is centred on a worm and roller box before adjusting tracking. Factory set boxes have a split ring on the input shaft of the worm that lines up with a casting mark on the box. If in doubt, count the turns lock to lock with the steering stops off then half it.

Good lord... All these years and bottles of tippex etc.. Had no idea that there was a casting mark to line the split ring with.  ;D ;D

Beach Buggy Rolling Chassis Help / Re: steering box location
« on: June 12, 2020, 10:04:54 AM »
145mm on my buggy beam & on my spare beam.. ;-)up ;-)up

Paul is that from the beam tower to the side of the steering box?
145mm on my buggy beam & on my spare beam.. ;-)up ;-)up

Paul is that from the beam tower to the side of the steering box?

Hi Mathew... not heard from you in a long time.  Hope you are all well.   How is the short run og Manx style Roll Hoops going ?

Beam question.   My buggy, south african import beam has a single welded spot for box location. My spare has two small, square raised sections on top of the  tube.  The steering box fits to this tube precisely between these to raised square bits so I am confident the measure ment is accurate. the 145mm is from the tower inner wall to the inner point of the first raised square. This is the point where the steering box arched section sits flush against. On my buggy the single weld dot is where the box locates to and is 145 mm..

Stay safe P.

Beach Buggy Rolling Chassis Help / Re: steering box location
« on: June 12, 2020, 09:48:14 AM »
Hi John... First full marks for having a go.. ;-)up ;-)up

You have early rods that have the clamps. This is just another method they used to fix the track rod end in place once adjusted.   

Beach Buggy Rolling Chassis Help / Re: steering box location
« on: June 11, 2020, 02:38:18 PM »
Just seen Keith`s post..... the short rod on beetles up to 1960 in theory but possibly into 61 have a fixed rod. (Rod is also cranked). Replacements with removable ends are available.  (Note early tapers are smaller than later hence you need the correct rod end tapers... You can identify what taper size you have if you look at the rod end taper bit securing nut. Small version nut is 17mm. Large version is 19mm).  Nothing ever straight forward with vw beetle eh  ;D ;D

Beach Buggy Rolling Chassis Help / Re: steering box location
« on: June 11, 2020, 02:32:08 PM »
Ball park track rods....   Nothing I know of..  It`s an easy process.  Normally when you remove a track rod end you count the number of turns the rod unscrews to give you some idea how many turns to use when fitting the replacement.

So from scratch. When you have the steering box in place fit the flexi coupling to the steering box. Without rods connected rotate the steering box to full left lock and then full right lock of the box. From this continue to get the steering box into it`s centre straight ahead steering position. That is middle of movement. Make a mark for reference on the "rubber" coupling. Tippex or something. Screw in the track rod ends to the short and the long rod about half of the threads. . (Short rod goes from steering box to offside wheel). On each rod one end is left hand and one is right hand thread. You will see why as you progress. Start with the short rod and fit tapers of the rod ends to the eye`s of steering box and the wheel hub section. Nip the rod ends up a bit. Fit long rod to steering box end. (You may have a steering damper as well but this can go on last). Fit long rod to nearside wheel and nip up nut on rod end. Once both in place and the steering box in centre straight ahead position you need to be sure both front wheels are in the straight ahead position. They won`t be so to address this , with the track rod end nuts at rod ends backed off simply grab hold of the rod and turn it and this is where the left hand\right hand threading comes into play. They allow the overall length of the rod and rod end to be shortened or lengthened to straighten up the wheel. Do the same with the short rod to get the other wheel straight. Make sure you have plenty of the rod end thread section into the rod thread. Don`t be afraid to disconnect a rod end and screw the end in or out a bit to get things as equal as you can. When you are happy that the box is central with both wheels pointing straight ahead connect steering column shaft to flex coupling and centre the steering wheel on the splines. Then when all assembled and steering wheel is in the straight ahead position and front wheels are straight ahead go ahead and adjust the tracking. You are looking for a little "toe in". That is to say if you are looking at both front wheels front the front of buggy the wheels need to both point in a little. Volkswagen recomend a 1\8" of toe in. Use something to measure the distance between the rear of the front wheels at the inner surfaces. Then reduce this same measurement on the front inner surfaces by this 1\8" and tighten up the rod nuts and you have tracking sorted. (This is an old car system and it doesn`t require laser accurate alignment. If you want you can have a tyre depot check it for you).   Lot of words here but follow what I have written and you will see what you are doing as you go along.   P.

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