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January 17, 2021, 11:38:07 AM

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Take care.....   Short wheel base with space frame unless already dvla inspected and issued with v5c etc comes under the realms of "heavily modified" and as such requires at best DVLA appointed engineer inspection or at worst iva compliance and certification.

Dedicated space frame via iva needs engineers technical reports and force/load specs.  Good luck with your search.

 ;-)up ;-)up

Beach Buggy Engine and Exhaust Help / Re: Venting to carbs
« on: January 14, 2021, 02:24:15 PM »
You are right here Paul in that the moment you remove an aircooled engine out of its natural environment of the "engine bay" the operating conditions are completely thrown out of the window. What I would say/advise owners is that if you want a trouble free running then  try to maintain basics as much as you can as these principles did give this engine longevity so far past any other that it is hard to believe. A watercooled engine from 36 and many many years onward was looking at a top end overhaul at a mere 30,000 miles and at 60,000, if they ever got there, a full rebuild was required.

When I think back to the notchback, which I bought for 50 whilst owning my buggy, and purely wanted it for the engine to put into my buggy I was so impressed with the notchback that I ran it until I wrote it off. The engine went into the buggy totally original with the air filter box etc mounted remotely and the hot air hoover retained. This engine started instantly, idled from cold and the choke came off  smoothly. No hiccups at junctions and no hesitation on acceleration. 

I guess if you move the goal posts a little you can recover original parameters. If you move the goal posts a lot well it`s going to be troublesome  ;D

Am going to write up some observations that I made with my buggy in the garage where the concrete floor temperature was minus 10 degrees. It stayed well below zero for two days so I had chance for a bit of investigation....  I now know exactly what happens at a cold start up. 

Beach Buggy Engine and Exhaust Help / Re: Venting to carbs
« on: January 14, 2021, 12:39:10 PM »
Hi Doon...   I say single carb because this is where 99% of my personal experience came from.  I was fortunate in that at secondary school I met the lad who was to become my best mate. He worked for a couple of years at Mill Garage and I was allowed by management to talk to him and look through the official operating manuals current to that point. In fact i was allowed to borrow them one at a time These tomes were immense but everything was backed up with drawings/schematics and lots of calculations that just went over my head. 

I have only ever owned one twin carb aircooled VW and that was a 1500 twin carbed notchback that I truly wish I still had. However I wrote it off one xmas time. This had twin carbs. Don`t remember the type. I don`t recall the "breathing" either. I am confident in saying this will have had a breather pipe to at least one carb. Cannot see why you would have two but could be wrong on this. The principle remains the same I would suggest in that the prime purpose was to maintain a small positive crankcase pressure. Unfortunately, being a "schoolboy tinkerer" and no engineer  I don`t recall why  the crankcase positive pressure was considered necessary. A carburretor utilses the "venturi" principle and the flow of air to fuel air mix is quite fast. There was never any sign of an oily mist within the carb body if you looked down the throat. It must have shot straight into the manifold and on into the piston barrels. Removing the inlet manifold showed no oil residue either so the amount of oil involved must have been really minimal. (This may be born out by the fact that type 1 engines did not "eat" oil).

There was a comment in an earlier post of this thread whereby the writer stated something along the lines that he knew vw did it but he would never let oily crap go down his carb/s.  Sadly people just jump to conclusion without really understanding what they talk about.
We. who drive modern cars daily, send crap into our engine every single day we drive them.... How so... Think egr valve, (exhaust rec-circulation valve).... This device, when working correctly, is under precise engine management control. It does not, or shouldn`t operate frequently of for long. At start up, or when falling to very low revs it should open under vacuum control from a solenoid and whilst open allow unburnt exhaust gas to re-circulate back into the engine to be burned off within combustion. Does it allow crap through into the cylinders? .... Absolutely.  Take off a well used/seized egr valve and you will see exactly the same rigid black carbonised deposits that you find in the heat riser pipe of a type 1 single carb engine. This crap is easily removed completely from a type 1 riser pipe but not so from a modern egr valve. Carb cleaner flushed thro might get it going for a week or two but doesn`t help the moving bits to operate freely.....   

My aim is never to criticise others.... I just try to pass on what I believe to be original thinking and principles. There is so much rubbish/mis-information on the web that I steer clear of it and ask my questions on here from people who run their buggies frequently and not just two or three times a year.

Beach Buggy Engine and Exhaust Help / Re: Venting to carbs
« on: January 14, 2021, 08:19:30 AM »
Just to mention the original VW design principles.....

The crankcase environment was designed to have a small positive pressure but importantly to have this as consistent as possible. Air is drawn into the crankcase quite efficiently by the "scroll piece". In order to maintain a "small" positive pressure the "oil filler tower" had either 1 or 2 "take offs". (I cannot remember if the two preceded the one or the other way round). Take the single take off as an example first tho`.... this connected to the carb air filter to allow the "induction" to draw air/oil mist back into the engine to be burn`t and so stop the crankcase positive pressure from rising above the "design" level.  It had nothing to do with emissions in 1936 as no such thing was of a concern.    The 2nd take off had a pipe leading to atmosphere further down the structure. The majority of petrol engines in "early" years had wire wool fitted to oil relief pipes/fixtures. Aircooled engines had them just inside the take off pipe area. (Mine is still in place after 45+ years).  This was in place to prevent "fire back". Early petrol engines backfire up through carb/carbs with ease if your timing or valve rocker clearances are incorrect. Visible flame at times. That wire wool is intended literally to be a "fire suppressor". 

This info is what I gleaned as a youngster from the actual VW manuals to be found at their UK main agents Mill Garages.  What I experienced practically was that... yes... the engine ran more smoothly with the tower to filter pipe in place with standard carb fitted. Yes oil leakage occured more often with the pipe off.  QED (for the mathmaticians  ;D)

Beach Buggy Engine and Exhaust Help / Re: Venting to carbs
« on: January 13, 2021, 08:52:27 AM »
Hi  Paul.... Yep the dark heavy clouds appeared our way early hrs this morning and it`s well below zero as I type. have my snow shoes unpacked but they a bit raggidy now after all the years in the garage.  Wonder what Eddie is up to these days. Doesn`t it seem like just yesterday that he was thrilling the world. Amazed he never killed himself. But it proves the saying "chase your dream".  Keep warm and safe over at whitehaven. P

These people specialise in Smiths gauges repair as well as making speedo drive cables etc..  Know of them but have never used them.


Beach Buggy Engine and Exhaust Help / Valve stems
« on: January 12, 2021, 12:47:22 PM »
Another query please.....

Still not happy with my engine after the stuck no 1 exhaust valve issue whereby the pushrod came adrift....

Whilst debating wether to pull this engine out yet again or not I took a look at a 1600 twin port Type 1 engine schematic in a borrowed manual.  I could see no indication of a valve stem oil seal, nor was one mentioned in the rhetoric. I know with certainty my 1200cc type 1 single ports DID have valve stem oil seals. 

So does a 1600 twin port of 1974/75 vintage really not have valve stem oil seals.   I cannot get my head around this if so...

No other engine I have dismantled didn`t have stem seals. Replacement being the very reason for changing them when the engine started to issue a blue haze, (yep blue not purple... that was a song)....

Beach Buggy Electrical Help / Re: buggy re wire
« on: January 12, 2021, 12:16:32 PM »
Don`t remember if I have mentioned this before but back in 89 when I quit contracting and working away from home I started employment at a polymer production plant. Shifts running 24/7 ..365 days a year. At that point, outside of normal working hours, each shift was allocated one electrician and one mechanical guy.  I was staggered to meet one of the electricians and to find out he was "colour blind"... Thought I was being wound up at first but it was true. Turns out that colour blindness is/can be selective in what colours you are " blind" to or not. This guy had passed out of apprenticeship and worked for the coal board for many years until maggie shut the colleries. In the 13 years I worked alongside him I was never aware of any error in what he did.

As for electrics being magic..... no it`s not... think battery. plus terminal. negative terminal ... 2 x lengths of wire connecting bulb to battery and bulb lights up. That`s it honestly.   

Beach Buggy Engine and Exhaust Help / Re: 006 or 004
« on: January 12, 2021, 12:00:19 PM »
Yes.... only way for engine to be truly cold is an overnight stand.  Old school thinking since the dawn of motor engines has been cold setting whereby the cold meant exactly that. On all of my 1200 single port beetles, and each one was ancient before coming into my hands, never lost their rocker gap setting regularly. The head cover gaskets never leaked. The push rod tubes never leaked. I can only think that the original VW supplied gaskets/seals were old school materials with consistent batch quality.

Pleased to hear that there is experience of  004 cold setting running for extended periods.  One of those odd things that stick in my mind for some reason despite it being 50 years ago and that is I have a two "pictures" in my head. The 004 sticker on the fan shroud just above and to the right of the dynamo being of red graphic on what may have been white background when new and the 006 being a silvered sticker with black graphics.

Thank you to those who have replied to my query..    As for a Mike H buggy exhaust`s being noisy "a la buggy norm" this one probably "breaks the mould".  ( Mike is a tremendously helpful, very friendly guy). I was quietly impressed when he agreed to create a system without seeing my buggy. Silverstone is a good 6 hrs non stop trip from my home and when I first spoke to him at the beginning of May we had gone into lockdown. As soon as I can I will add to my build thread.

Beach Buggy Engine and Exhaust Help / 006 or 004
« on: January 11, 2021, 01:39:45 PM »
The engine in my buggy is a standard 1600 twin port type 1.

Mike H has almost completed my exhaust system. When I have this fitted I will need to assure myself that the noise level that a db metre picks up at each exhaust outlet at mid range revs does not hit 100db. The test rig that vosa uses shows a real time continuous read out to two decimal places. Although the official limit is 99db the readout can show 99.99 and you have a pass. Just 1 instantaneous indication of 100 is a fail.....  Technically the db reading should be that of the exhaust system and nothing else but in a buggy the engine is exposed and there is so much additional mechanical noise that it`s not easy at testing point to a). determine how much of the total noise is exhaust and how much is not... b), there has to be mutual agreement that any method you use to attempt to use to prove actual exhaust noise is theoretically sound.   It`s not impossible but the aircooled engine hanging off the end of a buggy is a rarity at IVA. The "normal guys" usually have front engined vehicles with rearward exhaust outlet giving plenty of room for silencing along with cats and unless you had fitted a 70`s 7 litre Hemi you would have to try hard to fail.

Right to my point finally......   Rocker clearance..  All my early Beetles were 1200 single ports and everyone had a sticker on the fan housing indicating a valve clearance of 004. Always measured with the engine stone cold. It was a rare event to have to adjust them once set correctly. Later, somewhere mid 70`s I remember talking to the Mill Garage mechanics who had seen the new beetles come into the showroom with .006 clearance stickers. Strangely Wolfsburg did not forewarn the franchise outlets and a full year went by before an official update was issued. There was no official reason given for the change and the rumour mill went into overdrive.
There has been much speculation ever since especially towards cylinder 3 dropped valves. Weirdly this was a much much earlier issue with type 1 engines pre- doghouse mod. The oil cooler sat directly in the cooling air flow to number 3.

Ok..... a question if I may now I have touched on the above to indicate I understand valve clearance issues and my query is just this..

At a clearance of 004mm the noise level is significantly lower than at 006mm.   So is there anyone on the forum who has and is running a type 1 engine of 1600 twin port type with a 004 rocker clearance. Can it be done without long term issues. (Appreciate I can close them down pre test and open up again post test but thats not my query).

Beach Buggy Electrical Help / Re: buggy re wire
« on: January 11, 2021, 01:11:50 PM »
Agree 110% with this... Worth every penny of 400.    It`s one outlay you will never regret.  ;-)up ;-)up

Beach Buggy Electrical Help / Re: buggy re wire
« on: January 08, 2021, 01:45:45 PM »
There is no going rate...  The cost will vary enormously depending upon what you have currently, what you want and what is required for safety.
Give Chad a shout. He produces 1st class wiring looms to forum members but he will need full details of your needs. it is important to understand that creating a loom from scratch and any time needed should you want wiring schematics is a long tedious process and does not come cheap. 

Parts Wanted / Re: Meyers Manx body
« on: December 31, 2020, 08:50:13 AM »
Agree with Dave and his remarks upon Marks Flatlands show quality builds. These you have to see "in the flesh" to appreciate. It`s a shame he has bowed out of the buggy scene but in his words there was just no practical return financially for him. He has returned to his no one passion which is motor bikes.

As for the Manx body kit..... Yes it was, and probably still is, on the expensive side. The quality of the "fibreglass"  lay up is good. There is one very noticeable thing tho`.... The body is no where near symetrical re left to right hands side. Wether this was due to a poor original used as a mould copy or what I don`t know.

Whichever body kit you finally decide upon be prepared to "make it fit". You cannot simply take a body tub and fit it to your chassis and expect it to be a perfect fit without a bit of hard graft.

Whatever you choose. Have fun, be patient but..... please don`t take as long as I have spent.. ;D ;D

Parts Wanted / Re: Meyers Manx body
« on: December 30, 2020, 08:31:46 AM »
Hi does anybody no where I can get Meyers body shell from as flatlands don't do them anymore I'm not in a rush I don't need it till April thanks

As Dave says.... AF in Portugal is where Flatlands Mark got his from. (This is where my body tub and pods originated).

Beach Buggy General Help / Re: Has my buggy been cloned?
« on: December 23, 2020, 02:26:10 PM »
Me thinks you watched Dukes of Hazard for a weekly fix of Daisy Duke   ;-)up

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