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May 25, 2020, 11:56:14 PM

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Messages - Paul1953

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Beach Buggy Rolling Chassis Help / Re: wn7 leigh
« on: May 20, 2020, 06:55:27 PM »
John....  Take a browse through my build thread. "birth of a buggy".  All you need is there in photo`s   ;-)up ;-)up

Newbie Welcome Area / Re: New to buggies! Any advice appreciated
« on: May 20, 2020, 06:49:12 PM »
It`s a Hi from me   ;-)up ;-)up

Beach Buggy Rolling Chassis Help / Re: urethane beam bushes
« on: May 19, 2020, 05:01:37 PM »
There is an old school way to replace bearings.  have the bearing area warm. cool the bearing in a fridge. Quickly tap\press into place making sure all is square.. bingo all done.

Members Buggies / Re: Next one GP 2020 refurb
« on: May 19, 2020, 04:44:42 PM »

I was under the impression that any serial number plate / VIN plate or identification plate had to be secured by a means that could not be removable using basic tools - ie: rivets are ok but regular nuts and bolts are not. Not sure how security screws are viewed if the rear retainers are accessible.

Hiccup on my part Dave.....   The Vin\Corner Weights plate does need securing with rivets. The Manufacturer Plate can go on with Studs & Nylocs.

Members Buggies / Re: Next one GP 2020 refurb
« on: May 18, 2020, 02:44:03 PM »
Hugh....  I am not quite sure of what to make of things at the moment. It`s as though someone is saying stop your build now.... Have just posted an explanation of my latest set back on a thread relating to a member query about a brand new engine purchase.

Plates for iva... Couldn`t have kept it simple could they?    :'( :'(   Apart from number plate type\location compliance two other plates are required. The first one is the manufacturers plate. This shows the type, (Meyers Manx in my case), and states it is a official approved copy and it shows the official serial number. This is simply attached to the body with rivets or small bolts and nuts. Rivets ok. Nut\Bolt if plate is in a checked zone and it will be it is subject to radii checks.

Along with this is the requirement for a speccifically arranged plate showing Manufacturers Type. VIN Number, Each of the 4 edge kerb weights plus a gross kerb weight. All have to be etched or embossed. There is a specific layout for these details. For some unknown reason it`s not good enough just to have a plate with these details present. You may have seen this sort of plate on ebay. They originated for vehicles,trailers etc and were most often yellow in colour. Officially now they should have black background with silverish,(a la aluminium), fields for the etching embossing od details.

I am hoping you can see why I am probably no longer sane   ;D ;D   Take care & stay safe  P


This may be an appropriate thread for this posting. It goes to show that no matter having decades of experience stripping down\rebuilding  suspension, gearbox, engine etc there is always something that you don`t know and can learn. (The hard way of course  ;D) I have always stated that the best, simple thing you can do to any vehicle and not just your buggy should you want to over-winter it is to run it on the road regularly and I don`t meant just a couple of times.

Here is how I was caught out and the end result may prove to be far worse than what I am hoping for at best.   I paid top money to have my engine rebuilt by a long time renowned aircooled engine guru. Say this just to make the point that I should have an engine that was as good as it could be considering it was built in 1975.

This was rebuilt about 3 years ago. Got it back and did everything right... No rotation of crankshaft until distributor was installed ensuring dog had engaged. Filled with oil and rotated by hand weekly whilst waiting to go in buggy. Light misting of oil to cylinders and spark plugs fitted in place. About 9 months go by before it gets put into buggy.  Fitted, firing order, static timing checked\corrected. cranked without feed to coil and plugs out until sure had oil pressure. Then run up. Was thrilled to hear it running and after carb cleaning it came off choke and idled as smooth as I could have wished. Zero exhaust smoke even when started from cold and full winter choke setting Time goes by, a lot of it, but religously started it every couple of days and for a while now started daily to get buggy in and out of garage.

Now then.... I had thought I had been running engine sufficiently long each time to warm it through. We get to the other day and where I learn yet another lesson and maybe more very soon. However sticking to the point of this post.... Regular running during off road periods.

Started the engine up several days ago. Didn`t start instantly as it had always done. Was a little lumpy and after a minute or so there was a light knocking noise that lasted a few seconds, stopped, re-appeared at which point I shut it off. Checked spark plugs. Checked coil, distrubutor etc and thank goodness decided to remove the rocker covers the next morning. Knew I had an issue the moment I got down to undo rocker cover clip. Stunk of petrol down there. Pulled out dipstick and the oil, classic stuff, that had remained a clear green since putting it in was miltary green and runny. Level indication higher than it should be. Heart sunk. Off came the rocker cover and the oil all runny. BUT.... cylinder number 1... pushrod not under rocker arm. Was to side and rocker arm free to mover on arm.  :'( :'(  Sump drain opened and drained out oil\petrol mix. A lot of petrol in the sump. I am assuming I have no piston ring problem as no smoke from the cannon. Pulled out the pushrod and it wasn`t bent in the way I have seen before. Held rod up to light with straight edge along it`s length and it bows slightly. A 1mm gap at middle of bow. Cannot re-install this rod just in case it becomes a problem. Waiting for a replacement from Farmer Rob. How the rod was able to come adrift is a question. The rocker arm adjuster nut and screw are still tightly locked. Have not moved. There is no play in the rocker to shaft area. There is no obvious damage except for a little impact on the push rod. So it`s certain the knocking was this rod being displaced.   What of the petrol in the oil though?   Talking to Rob it`s hopefully probable that this occured as a result of the high ethanol petrol eating through the fuel pump diaphragm allowing petrol down into the crankcase.

Going to take a gamble.... New pump on order. Rocker pushrod from Rob. Pushrod will go back in after checking cylinder head nut torque. Rocker shaft re-torque. All Rocker gaps checked\reset. Flush with new oil cranking engine without firing. Drain and fresh oil and start up.

Right... Coming to the origiinal point... ;D ;D... The No 1 exhaust valve spring is fairly rusty. (These were brand new), The inlet valve has rust but not very much. They and the other springs are dry. The nearside set are all misty\oily as per normal. (This may be a separate issue that I don`t want to think further of yet). The inside of both rockers were oily but there was water pooling both covers. Was oil in both so hopefully I have oil feed to both sides). This is my point.....  if your buggy is going to be off road over winter or otherwise run the engine up regularly but run it for a while to ensure engine is thoroughly warmed through. This will minimise condensation and emulsification of oil.

New engine.... Don`t rotate engine without the distributor in place. If you do you run the chance of locking the crankshaft completely. I have seen this happen.   Make sure your engine is timed statically correctly to relevent piston. Check plug leads are correctly connected to the relevent cylinder. Crank the engine over with oil in it to be sure pressure develops and red light goes out. Make sure carb is set up properly and double check rocker gaps no later than 500 miles on. If you have any money to spare after this I could use some    ;-)up ;-)up

Members Buggies / Re: Next one GP 2020 refurb
« on: May 18, 2020, 01:23:12 PM »
square plates are fine as long as they have the correct size and shape font spaced out, just thinking plates need suppliers name and post code on them hence all the crap when buying new do they look for this on IVA as it is a new  build car. The Gp plates came with no maker id like plates were back then.

It`s maybe an age related thing Keith but I like best the old black plates with the raised metal script and for some reason I like the square front type and also no rubbish writing advertising on them. Guesss it will come as no surprise that iva requires the modern reflective versions with the appropriate plate size, font size and font spacings and that eternal edge radii compliance. Rubber edging is used often or the plate is recessed below curved surface of a mounting piece. I know iva is about safety principally but it is endless in radii requirement.

Members Buggies / Re: Next one GP 2020 refurb
« on: May 16, 2020, 08:33:01 AM »
Keith... Just catching up on this thread. Things going nicely. Strange this covid crisis. They say every cloud has a silver lining. I am hearing from numerours home build parts suppliers etc that they have never been busier order wise with replacement stock becoming limited due to their suppliers fullfilling pre existing orders with reduced staffing.

Anyway... a question if I may..  Do you know if square front number plates are fully road legal ?  Take care and stay safe Paul

Beach Buggy Rolling Chassis Help / Re: centre cap straightening
« on: May 14, 2020, 05:47:40 PM »
This has remided me of a local craftsman repairing 1950`s style long flowing wings. I would be about 14yrs old or so. I was fascinated as he proceeded removing dents using a small flat headed hammer and a long flat bar that was slightly angled for the last few inches. He used a leather bag filled with sand on the floor and it`s the very gentle tap tap tapping of the hammer and flat bar that had me mesmerised. Didn`t seem to be using enough force striking the metal but slowly the panel would go back to shape almost like magic.   I was well impressed.

Newbie Welcome Area / Re: Hello
« on: May 12, 2020, 03:53:19 PM »
it`s a hi from me  ;-)up

Beach Buggy Body and Chassis Help / Re: gearbox mount
« on: May 12, 2020, 01:30:26 PM »
Mounting transaxle to horns......   One of the really important "little" things when trying to get a buggy to go 70mph without any suspension issue is the rear wheel "Toe Out"... (Yes toe out, not toe in, as found in front wheels). Correct rear wheel toe out makes all the difference.  If you look at swing plates that go on the torsion bars you will see the axle end has 3 x elongated holes. On a stock original vw swing plate above this on the top edge is a groove. On the tube  upper side at locale of it`s 3 locating bolts is a similar groove, or should be if not corroded away.

These two grooves allow you to regain the original toe out placing by ensuring the two grooves align with each other.   This is the toe out positioning for a beetle but is generally ok for the lighter weight of a buggy. If not the toe out is adjusted by sliding the tube forwards or backwards with the 3 bolts in the 3 holes.   These 3 bolts should be at least 10.9 grade, (12.1 even better), and if you use a nyloc nut instead of standard nut with locking washer nyloc should be G10 grade.  ;-)up ;-)up

Beach Buggy Body and Chassis Help / Re: gearbox mount
« on: May 11, 2020, 06:05:24 PM »
Should be obvious when cone off and you looking at the 3 slots. All 3 slots in line is Neutral. Shafts push & pull with a bit of effort. All 3 rotate easily.

Newbie Welcome Area / Re: Greetings from SA
« on: May 11, 2020, 02:50:39 PM »
It`s a Hi from the very cold, windy North East of the UK ;-)up ;-)up

Newbie Welcome Area / Re: French frog whith you
« on: May 08, 2020, 04:06:27 PM »
it`s a Hi from me   ;-)up

Beach Buggy Rolling Chassis Help / Re: schoolboy error
« on: May 07, 2020, 06:18:02 PM »
Torque master tool is the best money you'll ever spend, you can remove and refit hubs and flywheels with a 3/8 ratchet.


Abolutely agree with this. I bought one some time ago after snapping a 3\4" breaker bar trying to get the nut off.  Torque tool required no effort what so ever. Have used it numerous times on axle nuts and on flywheels. 1st time every time... zero effort. just as easy to torque your nut back up again to correct torque... ;-)up

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