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May 26, 2020, 01:57:59 AM

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VW Parts For Sale / Scottish Beach Buggy Club Stickers
« on: September 05, 2019, 03:29:33 PM »
Hi folks.

I have a very limited few (less than 10) remaining set of the Scottish Beach Buggy Clubs first ever run of stickers.

They are circular 5x5cm die cut.

1 each plus 60p for a second class stamp.

Payment via paypal is prefered :D

Parts Wanted / 40idf air filters.
« on: July 04, 2019, 01:53:51 PM »
Looking for some good quality air filters for a pair of weber 40idfs.

Looking online its 70 quid for a pair new, can anyone beat that or know of a better deal elsewhere?

Looking to get trumpets fitted as I got 4 for only 10 quid but my filters are too wee.

VW Parts For Sale / Pair stainless steel spot lamps Maxtel.
« on: March 09, 2019, 08:11:58 AM »
I have a small pair of spot lamps 5inch? I dont need for sale.

Stainless steel body so no fears about rusty pitting, just bling to last a life time. With h1 high power bulbs.

Originally for mini coopers.


VW Parts For Sale / Pair 7 inch LED headlights
« on: March 09, 2019, 07:57:31 AM »
Got a pair of blacked out style led headlights. Standard 7 inch units for jeep wranglers, landy defenders, buggies 😉

Built in halo for drl or side lights in white or orange.

Orange can also be used to act as indicator when the headlights are on.


Stainless buckets not included.

Beach Buggy Electrical Help / Accuspark SVDA eletronic braaaaains
« on: May 31, 2018, 07:40:40 PM »
So, I cooked the dizzy and blew up the little box inside. Put another new one in and jobs a good'un. Runs well. So now I have a new dizzy with a dead electronic box inside

Can I replace the brains of the operation inside the dizzy so I can re-use it...? for a spare?

VW Parts For Sale / Weber 34icts pair with manifolds
« on: April 28, 2018, 02:04:02 PM »
Weber 34icts on shorty twinport manifolds.

Sold as is. Need servicing/rebuild. Came of 1600cc. Slight damage to throttle arms bent out of shape. Sure its fixable.

Located in Dundee.

120 ono... plus postage. Probably about 10.

Pics available.

Beach Buggy Rolling Chassis Help / Sloppy pedals
« on: April 15, 2018, 07:12:47 PM »
Hi folks.

After fitting new carbs my accelerator pedal is super sloppy. No life in it at all.

The cable is tight going back to the carbs but when pressing the pedal it doesnt want to return....?

Im at a bit of a loss. Had a poke about but nothing seems jammed up?

VW Parts For Sale / Gauge Wizard. Match any gauge to any sender.
« on: March 11, 2018, 06:46:21 PM »
1x Spiyda Gauge Wizard.

Matches gauges to senders, good for buggies with odd shaped fuel tank or poorly reading gauges. Has the ability to switch on low fuel lights, operate relays for fans or opening other fuel tanks, lpg swaps etc.

Selling as my fuel sender is positioned so badly (or its broken, but I dont want to take half my car apart to get to it) can't make use of this marvellous equipment.

Gauge wizard and destruction's included.

more info and also great set up videos on spiyda.com/Link/WIZARD.html

30 posted? willing to take a hit on this one as its such a great and easy to use bit of kit, just a shame it wasn't able to sort my problem.


Beach Buggy Electrical Help / Sealing electrical connectors.
« on: December 03, 2017, 06:07:21 PM »
Hi guys.

I've had a bit of an issue with my daily drivers electrical system and I thought it might be relevant to buggies as we are very exposed weather wise.

My mondeo's rear ABS sensors kept tripping a fault and it turns out the connector (super seal type jobbie) wasn't super sealing so well. I applied some WD40 to clean it out. reconnected and still tripped the ABS sensor after a battery disconnect and re-set and a good 200 miles. So... I re-did the cleaning and also put in some of that dielectric grease stuff. Again reset ecu and its working great. 1000 miles of salty roads later nothing...

So, what I'm after is.. Does adding dielectric grease into electrical connectors like the super seal, or block type connectors HELP prevent corrosion? therefore maintaining a good, solid connection.
I have seen it being used around the ceramic parts of spark plugs so the boot keeps more water out, but also helps stop arcing.

What are the thoughts of the buggy people? I wanted to ask here as with most car forums people aren't the nicest when it comes to controversial topics. 

If so, is it worth while coating the connectors with the stuff under the dash just to keep everything nice and reliable.

Beach Buggy Electrical Help / Led Headlights and odd electrics.
« on: October 09, 2017, 06:40:01 PM »
Why is nothing simple!

I put new led headlights in and wow. Ive some mad electrical stuff going on

With headlights side lights or main beams off....ignition on.
My brakes turns on the side lights and rear brake lights have swapped to the indicators....

Turning indicators on flashes brake lights and sidelights!

With lights on. Ignition off.
Brake turns on indicators and dims rear side lights.

Dafuq? Load resistors needed? How do i wire them in?

Beach Buggy Electrical Help / LED Speedometer Upgrade
« on: September 29, 2017, 05:26:05 PM »
Hi Folks.

Just a quick on here for those who are using the original style speedo's and are fed up with the pee poor light. It might of been OK in the 60s but I for one can't see anything, even with LED replacements for the standard bulbs I decided to go one step further.

PS! I didn't take a lot of pictures doing this, sorry!

For this you will need a 30cm length of Flexable LED lighting. eBay item number:232461912109

Looks like this:

A flat head screwdriver, some crimps terminals and thats it! You will need to completely remove the speedo from the car to do this.

You can pick and choose loads of colours but I went for a cool white. A warm white might look a bit more original as its on the yellower end of the scale, or you can go all out and get an RBG to have any colour you want... bit too much for me.

I went for an LED strip that had a black backing, as it would blend in well with the style of the dials.

To open up the speedo you can pry off the outer retaining ring and it will pop out. It comes with the glass face and a sealing boarder which on my speedo was black coloured. You can keep these for later.
On the reverse of the speedo undo all the small flat head screws and remove the fuel sender resistor, the fuel gauge. With them out the way, start to wiggle out the speedo gauge from the casing.

With the dials out, nows a good time to clean em with your favourite cleaner. Also it might be a good idea to put a little lube on the plastic gearing for the odometer. From here remove some more screws if you want your car mileage to mysteriously alter itself... but you'll need to figure that one out...  ;)

Now position your flexable strip of LED's inside the outer edge of the speed housing. Most LED strips have self adhesive backings but mines weren't sticky enough so I opted for PVA glue. that way if I ballsed it up its not on super strong and should come off easily.

I laid out the strip to begin just under the oil light and wrap around anti clock wise to the 10mph. This leaves you a little dead zone around the warning lights so they can still stand out and not get overpowered by the LED's. You can see in the picture below the first LED is directly under 90mph. There are small metal clips on the dial which help keep a bit of pressure on the strip. It's as if VW knew this was possible.....

I ran the wires from the strip outside the housing where the fuel gauge slots into. As this is plastic I felt that it wouldn't crimp the wires when put back together unlike trying to squeeze them through the original bulb holders and put the bulbs back in place. I didn't want to drill any holes as I wanted this to be as simple & cheap as possible

Fettle with the dial face when re-inserting it into the housing and use it to press the flexible strip against the dial edge and housing. It creates a small amount of pressure to hold it in place. I tried to get the LED's (little yellow squares) just in front of the dial, but even if they were half covered you'd get an amazing result.

You can now glue the LED strip to the outer metal housing once you are happy with the position of everything. You only need a little bit as the pressure from the dial and housing is just enough to hold it, but the addition of a wee touch of glue should prevent it from coming loose with vibrations etc. PVA will give you plenty of time to adjust it all in place before it dries.

Once it's dried put the black boarder in place, glass and then press on the training outer trim. Secure all the gauges with the screws and adjust the LED wires so they are not crushed when securing the fuel gauge back into place. The vdo gauge is made from plastic so is a bit more forgiving when tightened down but don't go mad.

Now crimp the wires. I chose to crimp on a small U crimp to the ground and slotted it in with the fuel resistor screw. The positive has a standard terminal crimp, so it wont require any modification to a standard loom.

Once your done it creates a nice effect, a good spread of light onto the dial face. The boarder piece also helps prevent the LED's from shining directly at you. It makes a nice seamless edge where you couldn't tell anything was added unless you really look for it. I think the black style led strip helps keep this "stealth" look. I think the white strips would be noticeable, but not much as the boarder piece really hides the LED strips quite well.

Hope it helps, sorry for the lack of pictures

Beach Buggy Engine and Exhaust Help / Engine Removal. First time tips!
« on: September 14, 2017, 02:56:55 PM »
Hi folks.

I am due to take my engine out of my buggy for the first time. I've never done it before so looking for some pointers.

The tools I have are a trolley jack, 4 jack stands and a wooden pallet to store it on. Also, the usual hand tools sockets, and the trusty hammer.

Whats the "best" way to do it? I've seen people have the car jacked on the torsion bars and use the jack to take the engines weight with the jack right on the engine sump. and lowering it down once bolts are out its been jiggled a bit.

Hi Folks.

After my saving grace disaster at IBW I was recommended to go UJ to replace any potential coupling "mishaps" again.

For those that were not there, my rubber "top quality" coupling broke while I was trying to get out of a parallel park. The steering box on my particular buggy is at an increased angle for reasons unknown to me. Perhaps it was just left and been like that when it was shortened, who knows! (Could this be adjusted to reduce the angle but then require a tracking adjustment as I'd get massive toe ?! )

Anyway, I have been looking into getting the steering shaft adapted to UJ's and apparently the best solution would be to use the "super beetle" style shaft. Two little UJ's in one neat package, but apparently the spline sizes differ, so getting a good secure bond isn't gonna happen. I have an early style steering box.

Does anyone on here have some pictures of their shafts and joints  ;) ;D so I can get a decent idea of what I'd like to do.

I think I will need to get a custom cut and weld on UJ steering shaft to match, but will I need supporting bearings to stop it all flopping about?


Parts Wanted / Fuel tank outlet
« on: April 14, 2017, 09:10:31 PM »
Anyone got an old fuel tank they need to chuck out?

If so I am looking for the outlet of one. If you could cut around it I'd love to have one....

VW Parts For Sale / Gearbox Strap Kit With Padding Front
« on: April 06, 2017, 05:27:50 PM »
Got one of these for sale. Never been used just test fitted but figured I didn't really need it so decided to sell it. I painted it hammerite red before test fit to give it a bit more rust proofing.

Rubbers in great condition as never been used, so looking for 30 posted.

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