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March 04, 2021, 04:17:20 AM

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Topics - Paul1953

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Beach Buggy General Help / NOVA
« on: February 13, 2021, 01:37:00 PM »
Does anyone know what year NOVA,(Notification Of Vehicle Arrivals), was introduced in the UK. Trying to find historical data

Parts Wanted / Parts Wanted
« on: January 18, 2021, 02:59:55 PM »
Does anyone have.....

1). Original hazard warning switch with integral lamp check. Condition unimportant as long as complete as it will be coming to bits.

2).  1600cc compatible inlet manifold. Ideally without the vacuum take off pipe for power assisted braking although this isn`t crucial. Condition as good as possible with no major corrosion to the heat riser pipe. Doesn`t matter if the heat riser pipe is blocked.

Thanks     Paul

Beach Buggy Engine and Exhaust Help / Valve stems
« on: January 12, 2021, 12:47:22 PM »
Another query please.....

Still not happy with my engine after the stuck no 1 exhaust valve issue whereby the pushrod came adrift....

Whilst debating wether to pull this engine out yet again or not I took a look at a 1600 twin port Type 1 engine schematic in a borrowed manual.  I could see no indication of a valve stem oil seal, nor was one mentioned in the rhetoric. I know with certainty my 1200cc type 1 single ports DID have valve stem oil seals. 

So does a 1600 twin port of 1974/75 vintage really not have valve stem oil seals.   I cannot get my head around this if so...

No other engine I have dismantled didn`t have stem seals. Replacement being the very reason for changing them when the engine started to issue a blue haze, (yep blue not purple... that was a song)....

Beach Buggy Engine and Exhaust Help / 006 or 004
« on: January 11, 2021, 01:39:45 PM »
The engine in my buggy is a standard 1600 twin port type 1.

Mike H has almost completed my exhaust system. When I have this fitted I will need to assure myself that the noise level that a db metre picks up at each exhaust outlet at mid range revs does not hit 100db. The test rig that vosa uses shows a real time continuous read out to two decimal places. Although the official limit is 99db the readout can show 99.99 and you have a pass. Just 1 instantaneous indication of 100 is a fail.....  Technically the db reading should be that of the exhaust system and nothing else but in a buggy the engine is exposed and there is so much additional mechanical noise that it`s not easy at testing point to a). determine how much of the total noise is exhaust and how much is not... b), there has to be mutual agreement that any method you use to attempt to use to prove actual exhaust noise is theoretically sound.   It`s not impossible but the aircooled engine hanging off the end of a buggy is a rarity at IVA. The "normal guys" usually have front engined vehicles with rearward exhaust outlet giving plenty of room for silencing along with cats and unless you had fitted a 70`s 7 litre Hemi you would have to try hard to fail.

Right to my point finally......   Rocker clearance..  All my early Beetles were 1200 single ports and everyone had a sticker on the fan housing indicating a valve clearance of 004. Always measured with the engine stone cold. It was a rare event to have to adjust them once set correctly. Later, somewhere mid 70`s I remember talking to the Mill Garage mechanics who had seen the new beetles come into the showroom with .006 clearance stickers. Strangely Wolfsburg did not forewarn the franchise outlets and a full year went by before an official update was issued. There was no official reason given for the change and the rumour mill went into overdrive.
There has been much speculation ever since especially towards cylinder 3 dropped valves. Weirdly this was a much much earlier issue with type 1 engines pre- doghouse mod. The oil cooler sat directly in the cooling air flow to number 3.

Ok..... a question if I may now I have touched on the above to indicate I understand valve clearance issues and my query is just this..

At a clearance of 004mm the noise level is significantly lower than at 006mm.   So is there anyone on the forum who has and is running a type 1 engine of 1600 twin port type with a 004 rocker clearance. Can it be done without long term issues. (Appreciate I can close them down pre test and open up again post test but thats not my query).

Beach Buggy General Help / Script style logo
« on: November 23, 2020, 12:12:11 PM »
Morning folks.....  Does anyone know of any firm or individual who can create " Flowing Script" style wording in alumium via laser cutting .

Not mass produced but as an individual item

VW Parts For Sale / 4 into 1 header
« on: November 01, 2020, 02:14:57 PM »
Dug this out today... Can anybody on the forum put it to good use ???   

Have described ths as a " 4 into 1 " Header system. The four pipes, suitable for Type 1 crankcases and anything with identical exhaust outlet placings, merge to a 3 bolt single flange type outlet. To this you can bolt a single silencer or with an adaptor pipe fit two cannon style silencers. Has manifold hot pipe connections if needed. If not blank off.

This merged header is brand new and has never been fitted or used in any way. I have a suitable flange gasket somewhere that I will dig out and supply bolts, washers & nuts for the flange.

Has it`s made in Taiwan sticker still on it. Has the original "transit paint" on it, (as described by the major retailers we all know). but this is just a covering. Has some very fine rust speckling in places but nothing that would not disappear with a bit of emery cloth.

50.00 plus a bit toward postage... Say 7.50 and I will cover the rest. (It`s a large and bulky item).

Cheers for now Paul

VW Parts For Sale / Front Caliper Brake Hoses
« on: October 29, 2020, 04:06:09 PM »
Another item hopefully to go to someone on here who can use them rather than listing on flea bay  ;D

A pair of brand new, unused Goodridge stainless steel overbraded brake hoses. Bought these as a full set, front and back, from Heritage at a cost of 84.   They are sold specifically for swing axle rear but front disc caliper conversions.

I wanted to replace the CSP supplied caliper brake hoses I had on my buggy with stainless overbraided as a way around an iva issue. However I now realise that the CSP caliper carrier is placed such that the caliper sits much lower down from the hub cenre line as is those on a Standard VW disc set up. This means the hose I needed had to be longer .  So I fitted the rears and these fronts are redundant.

Goodridge are of the highest quality and British made. Not looking to make my fortune. 25.00 and I will pay the postage. (Within standard UK post code areas that is)   ;-)up ;-)up

« on: October 21, 2020, 01:55:45 PM »
Thought that before I put these on "flea bay" one of you guys just building your buggy could maybe use them.

A pair of brand new, unused chromed buggy "cannon" style exhaust silencers. The chrome must not be of the modern "sunny climate" type as they have not rusted whilst laid up in the shed. They have a few light srface markings but nothing at all untoward. Just being picky here,

They are fitted with a decent, internal, non removable db "killer" section which I have tried to photograph but apologies if you cannot see this. Overall length, end to end is 49mm, Outlet end outer diameter is 77mm. Rear end connector section is slotted to allow clamping and is 42mm internal diameter and 45mm external diameter.

Looking for 50.00 which is a way lot less than what I paid for them. (Simply won`t help me out with IVA compliance).

Postage charge....... 7.50 (Just a bit to help out & I will pay the rest).

Anyone that is interested drop me a message. (Note I only have internet access via laptop so it may take me a while to respond).

Please, please... I am a ancient grumpy old northener so all I ask is genuine queries if you will. :'( :'( :'(

Beach Buggy General Help / Submersible fuel line
« on: July 08, 2020, 10:30:37 AM »
Following the incident with my engine I stared to look in detail at the flexi fuel line\high ethanol content petrol issue....  (Although my engine issue was a failed fuel pump diaprhagm not fuel line). I use Gates fuel line which whislt appears to be as good as any I have come across it eventually gives in to breakdown as the ethaol changes the structure.

I had never come accross "submersible" flexible fuel  line before until talking to pro track day drivers as a specific product. Just assumed the twin cell fuel tank links and the standard fuel tank internal pumps had normal flexi where fitted.

Although the submersible grade is far from cheap not a lot is needed where most of the fuel line is cupro nickel, brass or carbon\stainless steel.

Just wondering if any of you track day boys have had any experience at all with this fuel line. Manufacturers state it is 100% proof against all current ethanol grade petrol fuels.  Whilst I don`t believe any combination of materials available to none NASA space programme folk like me is 100% proof it would be nice to have a product that I wouldn`t now be checking every month  ;D ;D

Beach Buggy Body and Chassis Help / Manx Sidepod fitting
« on: May 02, 2020, 01:15:32 PM »
As a result of the lockdown I am hoping a Manx owner with side pods fitted may have the time to spare to take me a couple of photographs. At first read you might think why can I not simply lift a sidepod up to the tub and see exactly what needs to be done to persuade the pod to fit in place.

Well I can only describe my issue and hope it makes sense as to why close up photos will help me more than I can say.  When I was preparing my chassis I knew I had no option but to fit reinforcing tubes to the floorpanel underside U shaped outer ends. Simple enough and I also thought if I extended the square tubing back past the floorpan rear it would give me a pick up point for a bracket that could secure to the bottom two torsion tube cover bolts. This a necessity for iva in that support of the tube was required. So that is what I have and it`s where my difficulty rises. I cannot raise the side pod up into place because of the side pod rear bottom sweep in-over part. It cannot be raised because of the tube extension. The pod almost certainly will have to be cut to allow the rear to rise up to the tub. I am hoping I can guesstimate where I will need to cut if I can look at a photo showing pod  in placeeat locale of the torsion bar cover area. However because of the compound curves my guess may turn out to be way out after I cut and the pod needs to rise and possibly rotate at the same tine for correct orientation. So just want to not end up cutting masses away just to get pod in place. Any mistake may stand out like a sore thumb as although repairs to the pod would be simple enough I have had great difficulty in getting sun yellow paint to match the sun yellow gel coat. I was warned of this by Mark at flatlands. The paint  looks a good match until you get a compound curve in direct sunlight and then it`s another story.   A lot of writing but a couple of clear photos would be such a help.   Thank you in advance to anyone who may respond.  ;-)up ;-)up

Beach Buggy Electrical Help / STANDARD BEETLE WASH\WIPE
« on: February 12, 2020, 04:59:55 PM »
As I am about to update my build thread I thought I would post this issue with regard to a standard vw wash\wipe switch just in case anyone  at some time used the thread data for their own use.

Initially I had planned to use 2 individual old school style rocker switches for 2 speed wiper and washer operation with a lucas wiper motor. This was all worked out and bench tested and it worked with a single change over relay. Keith, snoopy, mentioned he used the steering column style switches for convenince to hand.. This sort of stuck in my mind and I have just completed bench testing of a standard beetle wash wipe switch and connected it to the buggy wiring temporarily to double check operation. Foolishly I managed to create a short whilst it was operating. I can sort this easily but for anyone changing out to this style of switch take real good care. Experience has taught me to bench check every switch terminal for every possible connection variable via continuity via multimeter and still I got caught out.

I purchased the late model switch combo advertised as the better quality and so paid a few pounds for it and it is now scrap. I am not criticising the build quality... just the use of modern materials. (What happened to old school heavy brass contacts and Bakelite bodies... as near as dam bullet proof as possible to be). The repo indicator & wash wipe switch bodies are nylon, or similar soft resin, and will not stand up to a short for more than a few seconds. My switch smoked and was disconnected as quickly as I could. Lever arm rigid. Took it apart to find out why. Nylon structure local to brass contacts had melted and contacts all out of position. No way at all to remedy this.

This was my problem but here are some pointers so that you can know what to watch for over and above not shorting out due to negligence.

The donor beeetle had no indicator, wash\wipe switching in place. All bits and pieces hung all over the place so I have no reference as to original fitting. See the two photos as to the switch type I obtained and was oping to use. (2nd one on order now  ;D). It has the usual "j" plug connection with 6 of the 8 "holes" populated with wires. Has the 2 washer water tubes plus washer pump motor connections. (Washer tubes to be redundant in my case). The six wires have colours that differ from the standard VW loom wiring colours which doesn`t help the novice.

The blue wire provides +12v for the whole system. There is an oddity that I cannot explain until I see a correct wiring diagram as I am at the moment baffled by the fact that the little brass hoop that the switch securing screw will go through and is a ground connects directly to the washer switch moving contact. This would mean that all would appear to work until it was in place on the column. Once screwed to the column the +12v would be grounded the moment the ignition came on and the fuse would blow. (Hoping here that someone will respond saying I have mis-interpreted the interaction of the various contacts but I am blowed if I can see how). Initially I thought the brass tag was one piece with the brass angled upright I have marked X.  Upon opening the switch up I was wrong. They are two separate contacts but kept in continuity via a contact moved by the arm throughout all switching positions. i,e permanently grounded. Note the two red arrows. One to the blue wire contact, (+12v). The other to the moving contact which connects to the blue wire and in its normaal position contacts point X.

The switch worked as I would expect it to with a off position, moving through intermittent to slow speed and finally to fast speed however to get this to work without blowing a fuse the angle at X would have to be bent down to break contact with the moving contact. (Contact moves up-over for wash function).

Ah well another sleepless night as I ponder just what I am missing here. It is as though the blue wire wants to be -12v, (ie negative).

As I look through a slowly shrinking collection of bits and pieces from donor beetle and bits bought over the last 3 years came across a couple of these. They are nos originals and reminded me of a query in a very recent thread regarding heater rise pipe gasket with small hole. For all intents and purposes you will see the hole is of 6mm dia.


Beach Buggy Rolling Chassis Help / help please .. Steering
« on: June 23, 2019, 05:22:34 PM »
I don`t want to google this in the hope someone on the forum can give some comments\details I know will be tried and tested so to speak...

I managed a second day this week to work on my buggy but I just seem to roll from one issue to another endlessly and it`s driving me mad. I have no reference from the original donor beetle as I never had cause to drive it at full lock. Tie this in with not being able to be sure what parts have been fitted over the decades I am hoping for some guidance after spending hours today.

My problem results from the fitting of csp disc brakes with zero offset. The hub & rotor sit only fractionally away from the stub axle link pin heads. This is by design and I am certain everything is seated as it should be and no spacer\s have been ommitted. My steering box, is  a repo part but I think the same as fitted to the beetle  and has approx` 3 and 1\4 turns from "lock to lock". So has a second that I have.  Now then I  have tried 3 versions of long rod and 3 versions of short rod. (Lengths differ. One set is that as was fitted to the Beetle) .

My problem is that no matter what I try. Different rods, different rod end settings on there their threads I cannot reach a point where the hub does not rotate to a point whereby the hub does not catch on the lower link pin head as it approaches full lock. That is full rotation of the steering box. The hub\disc is rotating further around on stub axle than it should be allowed to.

My questions please..... Can I have fitted the pitman arm upside down and if so could this be an issue? Which side, nearside or offside, is the longer ear on the end of the pitman arm supposed to point to ?

I know some beetles had steering lock stops formed as part of the pitman arm casting. Neither of mine do but why do some of them have such a stop?

just a few queries before I delve further and I hope you can decipher my ramblings. ;-)up

Beach Buggy Rolling Chassis Help / Another Question
« on: June 05, 2019, 05:43:16 PM »
Can anyone help pls ?
Strange that my beetles were all 6 volters which = 50\60`s cars here is something else I have no recollection of. (See  photo).

It`s a track control rod, offside, from a 1960 Beetle. Obviously owned by someone who likes aerosl paint. This short rod is cranked, not bent, and is of vw origin having the VW logo. The ball joints are totally unworn and the rubbers appear new as they have that whitish grey stuff that helps the part release from the mold. Am I interpreting what I am seeing correctly? The track rods do not appear to be removable and the arm has what I think may be crimp marks to keep the rods in place. Do they in fact come as a single unit? (The long rod has a removable track rod each side. No lock nuts just nut & bolt clamps).

I had hoped to just pull my stub axles off and replace with the ones I got at the weekend. Cannot just do this as I can see now the stub axle arm that the track rod end fits to has the eye hole much smaller. Both Pitman Arm holes are smaller and the 1960 system does not have provision for steering damper. Have the 1960 Pitman so hoping this can go straight onto fitted steering box. Keith, (snoopy) told me VW were notorious for making change after change I just didn`t realise how much so.  ;D

Beach Buggy Rolling Chassis Help / 1960 Steering Box
« on: June 03, 2019, 08:06:37 AM »
Obtained an original vw steering box which I was assured has been pro reconditioned and not used since. It is from a very low mileage 1960 beetle. I must have seen one before but I simply cannot remember this type. It has on the top cover, in addition to the adjuster, a large headed - threaded bit that obviously can be removed and re-fitted. (Picture an upside down top hat shape). Does this mean the box is oil filled rather than grease ?

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