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September 28, 2020, 01:59:12 PM

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Beach Buggy General Help / Submersible fuel line
« on: July 08, 2020, 10:30:37 AM »
Following the incident with my engine I stared to look in detail at the flexi fuel line\high ethanol content petrol issue....  (Although my engine issue was a failed fuel pump diaprhagm not fuel line). I use Gates fuel line which whislt appears to be as good as any I have come across it eventually gives in to breakdown as the ethaol changes the structure.

I had never come accross "submersible" flexible fuel  line before until talking to pro track day drivers as a specific product. Just assumed the twin cell fuel tank links and the standard fuel tank internal pumps had normal flexi where fitted.

Although the submersible grade is far from cheap not a lot is needed where most of the fuel line is cupro nickel, brass or carbon\stainless steel.

Just wondering if any of you track day boys have had any experience at all with this fuel line. Manufacturers state it is 100% proof against all current ethanol grade petrol fuels.  Whilst I don`t believe any combination of materials available to none NASA space programme folk like me is 100% proof it would be nice to have a product that I wouldn`t now be checking every month  ;D ;D

Beach Buggy Body and Chassis Help / Manx Sidepod fitting
« on: May 02, 2020, 01:15:32 PM »
As a result of the lockdown I am hoping a Manx owner with side pods fitted may have the time to spare to take me a couple of photographs. At first read you might think why can I not simply lift a sidepod up to the tub and see exactly what needs to be done to persuade the pod to fit in place.

Well I can only describe my issue and hope it makes sense as to why close up photos will help me more than I can say.  When I was preparing my chassis I knew I had no option but to fit reinforcing tubes to the floorpanel underside U shaped outer ends. Simple enough and I also thought if I extended the square tubing back past the floorpan rear it would give me a pick up point for a bracket that could secure to the bottom two torsion tube cover bolts. This a necessity for iva in that support of the tube was required. So that is what I have and it`s where my difficulty rises. I cannot raise the side pod up into place because of the side pod rear bottom sweep in-over part. It cannot be raised because of the tube extension. The pod almost certainly will have to be cut to allow the rear to rise up to the tub. I am hoping I can guesstimate where I will need to cut if I can look at a photo showing pod  in placeeat locale of the torsion bar cover area. However because of the compound curves my guess may turn out to be way out after I cut and the pod needs to rise and possibly rotate at the same tine for correct orientation. So just want to not end up cutting masses away just to get pod in place. Any mistake may stand out like a sore thumb as although repairs to the pod would be simple enough I have had great difficulty in getting sun yellow paint to match the sun yellow gel coat. I was warned of this by Mark at flatlands. The paint  looks a good match until you get a compound curve in direct sunlight and then it`s another story.   A lot of writing but a couple of clear photos would be such a help.   Thank you in advance to anyone who may respond.  ;-)up ;-)up

Beach Buggy Electrical Help / STANDARD BEETLE WASH\WIPE
« on: February 12, 2020, 04:59:55 PM »
As I am about to update my build thread I thought I would post this issue with regard to a standard vw wash\wipe switch just in case anyone  at some time used the thread data for their own use.

Initially I had planned to use 2 individual old school style rocker switches for 2 speed wiper and washer operation with a lucas wiper motor. This was all worked out and bench tested and it worked with a single change over relay. Keith, snoopy, mentioned he used the steering column style switches for convenince to hand.. This sort of stuck in my mind and I have just completed bench testing of a standard beetle wash wipe switch and connected it to the buggy wiring temporarily to double check operation. Foolishly I managed to create a short whilst it was operating. I can sort this easily but for anyone changing out to this style of switch take real good care. Experience has taught me to bench check every switch terminal for every possible connection variable via continuity via multimeter and still I got caught out.

I purchased the late model switch combo advertised as the better quality and so paid a few pounds for it and it is now scrap. I am not criticising the build quality... just the use of modern materials. (What happened to old school heavy brass contacts and Bakelite bodies... as near as dam bullet proof as possible to be). The repo indicator & wash wipe switch bodies are nylon, or similar soft resin, and will not stand up to a short for more than a few seconds. My switch smoked and was disconnected as quickly as I could. Lever arm rigid. Took it apart to find out why. Nylon structure local to brass contacts had melted and contacts all out of position. No way at all to remedy this.

This was my problem but here are some pointers so that you can know what to watch for over and above not shorting out due to negligence.

The donor beeetle had no indicator, wash\wipe switching in place. All bits and pieces hung all over the place so I have no reference as to original fitting. See the two photos as to the switch type I obtained and was oping to use. (2nd one on order now  ;D). It has the usual "j" plug connection with 6 of the 8 "holes" populated with wires. Has the 2 washer water tubes plus washer pump motor connections. (Washer tubes to be redundant in my case). The six wires have colours that differ from the standard VW loom wiring colours which doesn`t help the novice.

The blue wire provides +12v for the whole system. There is an oddity that I cannot explain until I see a correct wiring diagram as I am at the moment baffled by the fact that the little brass hoop that the switch securing screw will go through and is a ground connects directly to the washer switch moving contact. This would mean that all would appear to work until it was in place on the column. Once screwed to the column the +12v would be grounded the moment the ignition came on and the fuse would blow. (Hoping here that someone will respond saying I have mis-interpreted the interaction of the various contacts but I am blowed if I can see how). Initially I thought the brass tag was one piece with the brass angled upright I have marked X.  Upon opening the switch up I was wrong. They are two separate contacts but kept in continuity via a contact moved by the arm throughout all switching positions. i,e permanently grounded. Note the two red arrows. One to the blue wire contact, (+12v). The other to the moving contact which connects to the blue wire and in its normaal position contacts point X.

The switch worked as I would expect it to with a off position, moving through intermittent to slow speed and finally to fast speed however to get this to work without blowing a fuse the angle at X would have to be bent down to break contact with the moving contact. (Contact moves up-over for wash function).

Ah well another sleepless night as I ponder just what I am missing here. It is as though the blue wire wants to be -12v, (ie negative).

As I look through a slowly shrinking collection of bits and pieces from donor beetle and bits bought over the last 3 years came across a couple of these. They are nos originals and reminded me of a query in a very recent thread regarding heater rise pipe gasket with small hole. For all intents and purposes you will see the hole is of 6mm dia.


Beach Buggy Rolling Chassis Help / help please .. Steering
« on: June 23, 2019, 05:22:34 PM »
I don`t want to google this in the hope someone on the forum can give some comments\details I know will be tried and tested so to speak...

I managed a second day this week to work on my buggy but I just seem to roll from one issue to another endlessly and it`s driving me mad. I have no reference from the original donor beetle as I never had cause to drive it at full lock. Tie this in with not being able to be sure what parts have been fitted over the decades I am hoping for some guidance after spending hours today.

My problem results from the fitting of csp disc brakes with zero offset. The hub & rotor sit only fractionally away from the stub axle link pin heads. This is by design and I am certain everything is seated as it should be and no spacer\s have been ommitted. My steering box, is  a repo part but I think the same as fitted to the beetle  and has approx` 3 and 1\4 turns from "lock to lock". So has a second that I have.  Now then I  have tried 3 versions of long rod and 3 versions of short rod. (Lengths differ. One set is that as was fitted to the Beetle) .

My problem is that no matter what I try. Different rods, different rod end settings on there their threads I cannot reach a point where the hub does not rotate to a point whereby the hub does not catch on the lower link pin head as it approaches full lock. That is full rotation of the steering box. The hub\disc is rotating further around on stub axle than it should be allowed to.

My questions please..... Can I have fitted the pitman arm upside down and if so could this be an issue? Which side, nearside or offside, is the longer ear on the end of the pitman arm supposed to point to ?

I know some beetles had steering lock stops formed as part of the pitman arm casting. Neither of mine do but why do some of them have such a stop?

just a few queries before I delve further and I hope you can decipher my ramblings. ;-)up

Beach Buggy Rolling Chassis Help / Another Question
« on: June 05, 2019, 05:43:16 PM »
Can anyone help pls ?
Strange that my beetles were all 6 volters which = 50\60`s cars here is something else I have no recollection of. (See  photo).

It`s a track control rod, offside, from a 1960 Beetle. Obviously owned by someone who likes aerosl paint. This short rod is cranked, not bent, and is of vw origin having the VW logo. The ball joints are totally unworn and the rubbers appear new as they have that whitish grey stuff that helps the part release from the mold. Am I interpreting what I am seeing correctly? The track rods do not appear to be removable and the arm has what I think may be crimp marks to keep the rods in place. Do they in fact come as a single unit? (The long rod has a removable track rod each side. No lock nuts just nut & bolt clamps).

I had hoped to just pull my stub axles off and replace with the ones I got at the weekend. Cannot just do this as I can see now the stub axle arm that the track rod end fits to has the eye hole much smaller. Both Pitman Arm holes are smaller and the 1960 system does not have provision for steering damper. Have the 1960 Pitman so hoping this can go straight onto fitted steering box. Keith, (snoopy) told me VW were notorious for making change after change I just didn`t realise how much so.  ;D

Beach Buggy Rolling Chassis Help / 1960 Steering Box
« on: June 03, 2019, 08:06:37 AM »
Obtained an original vw steering box which I was assured has been pro reconditioned and not used since. It is from a very low mileage 1960 beetle. I must have seen one before but I simply cannot remember this type. It has on the top cover, in addition to the adjuster, a large headed - threaded bit that obviously can be removed and re-fitted. (Picture an upside down top hat shape). Does this mean the box is oil filled rather than grease ?

Parts Wanted / More help please
« on: April 24, 2019, 06:02:49 PM »
Why is it that building a buggy can be frustrating   ;D

When I was first introduced to the VW Beetle in mid 60`s the TV adverts proudly boasted that each year at least on part had changed and a competition was run each year giving a prize to the first person to spot the change  ;-)up ;-)up
However I now see that as years passed such changes must have multiplied rapidly.

I think I know what set of column switches are needed for my steering column. It must have had both the indicator switch sat on top of a windscreen wipe\wash switch. This is the only way the indicator switch can sit up towards the top and come in contact with the wheel cancel ring. Looking at the bottom end of the ignition barrel casting there are small round holes that I believe allow the switch version with the washer inlet outlet plastic pieces to protrude through. My initial thought that there was insufficient room for the multi pin connectors to fit must be wrong.

So... in order that I can double check these thoughts before forking out another weeks pension does anyone have one of these wiper\wash switch assemblies that they don`t need and I will buy it from you. It doesn`t matter what condition it is in, doesn`t have to be working, just need it to be complete.

Beach Buggy Electrical Help / Help Please
« on: April 20, 2019, 04:57:54 PM »
Can anyone tell me what steering column components make up a full assembly at the steering wheel end.

I have had many issues getting correct parts throughout this buggy build as a direct result of it`s South African origin. They used whatever parts were available regardless of the production year of the vehicle. As a result the vin number cannot be relied upon at all as a reference for parts suitability....   I don`t want to spend any more cash on this until I am certain of just what I need.

My current issue came to light when I trial fitted a replacement indicator switch..

Now then... the ignition barrel assembly came with a plastic outer shroud. Longer than the more familiar metal one. I am as sure as I can be that this was original to the car. When the donor was dismantled I found the existing indicator switch falling to bits and I don`t think it was what was on the car originally. The replacement is of single stalk as there is just the one cut out on the plastic shroud.
The indicator switch goes into place but as you tighten the 4 screws  the stalk bottoms on the shroud pushing it down over. Also see  photo..  the cut out in the switch does not line up with the slot in the barrel that the "metal" piece slots into. (Local to the srewdriver point).

Do I have a wrong switch assembly with unsuitable crank of lever? or....

Bits that came with original column and how I have assembled them. Cental shaft. Metal bush that takes up the slop at bearing. Ignition barrel on next. Plastic tube with notch in one end which must be spacer. Bearing held in place with metal circlip. Steering wheel onto splines with cancelling ring attached. Round washer onto shaft, wave washer and finally locking nut.

I appreciate there may be many variations over the years but need to know if something missing to stop indicator stalk bottoming or just the wrong switch assembly

Beach Buggy Engine and Exhaust Help / Type 1 & Exhaust
« on: October 12, 2018, 01:02:42 PM »
Having put myself into the position of needing iva compliance re-buggy exhaust and after googlin\ebaying etc I need help.

Have the TUV\Emarked cans, (Polished stainless)..... Inlet is 2". Hoping I can pull in a favour with a local tig welder. Standard Beetle exhaust pipes are 38mm.  So for each side I will have two 38mm pipes, one from each side of the head, that need to mate up with the 50mm can inlet at fan side of engine but with not a great deal of space either backover to the tub or from the head outlet level up to cans. I cannot find a two into one collector where the two is 38mm & the one is 50mm. Is it the most practical to merge the two 38mm pipes on the vertical rise. Is there sufficient height between what would be a top and bottom 90o bend or is the way forward to bring both 38mm pipes up over and bend at 90o towards the can and somehow merge them at the 50mm inlet. If any of you have done this on your buggy any photo of how you merged two into one would be a great help.

(I also have the restriction of a rear cage but that is of secodary importance at the moment).

Beach Buggy General Help / Steering Shaft Shroud
« on: September 08, 2018, 10:07:21 AM »
Beetle steering column shroud.....  My donor beetle was assembled at Utenhage and imported to the UK. I have come to realise that the South Africans used any VW part available at the time of assembly so you cannot use build date, vin number etc to obtain replacement parts and be sure what you get is correct.... Having looked at a number of Beetle steering column assemblies they all have the alloy shroud containing the steering lock assembly and ignition switch...  (There appears to be two types of steering lock methods of locating the locking lug on the shaft as well as two shaft top locking nut splined sections). Putting interchangeability to one side....

Can anyone tell me what model\year Beetle the "plastic" shroud was introduced? (My Beetle was a flat screen standard beetle, not 1302\1303 & the shaft has the smaller diameter splined section).

Beach Buggy Engine and Exhaust Help / 34pict carb
« on: June 21, 2018, 07:54:16 AM »
Weird...... was looking at my carb as I decide which way to go with hot air control when I suddenly realised the carb did not "look right". After lots of pondering the "window" opened..... It does not have a "damper" fitted.   Is this correct and VW dumped the idea. I always found they did a good job in keeping things smooth. 

Beach Buggy IVA / SVA Help / Wheels & IVA ammendment
« on: June 17, 2018, 04:36:24 PM »
Thought I would pop this in here... Have just spent hours with sheets of cardboard for templates. Really don`t want to have to get out the fibreglass and resin but don`t want Westfield\Marlin style "mudguards).

This is about a 2013 revision to Section 37  of IVA manual. Have been aware of this but only now that my buggy is on four wheels with both rear wheels perfectly level across tyre treads and the rear of the tub level side to side with the engine weight in it do I realise what an effect this revision is. Hope the photo is clear as it takes a lot of words to describe.

Imagine you are looking at the buggy from the side at, for example, the rear wheel area. (Note this applies to both front and rear wheels.

Have drawn a line representing ground level. Look to the lines I have drawn vertically through the wheel hob centre cap and the horizontal line.

Notice the angles lines creating 50 degrees and 30 degrees to the vertical. Also see the horizontal line 150mm above the horizontal line above the

horizontal line through the hub centre.

Note the words front & rear which indicate "to front or rear of vehicle .

OK ... the wordings....  "The vehicle must be fitted with mudguards"
                                  "The wheal guard must extend at least 30 degrees from the centre of the wheel to the front" (Figure 1 applies)
                                  "The wheel guard must  extend at least 50 degrees from the centre of the wheel to the rear" (Figure 1 applies).
                                  "The wheel guard must cover the full breadth of the tyre throughout the required dimensions" (Note 2 & Fig` 1)
                                  "The rear of the wheel guard must not terminate above a horizontal plane of 150mm above the wheel centre (Note 1 & figure 1"..

Note 1 .... The rear part of the mudguard after the required 50 degrees does not have to cover the full breadth of the tyre.
Note 2 When determining the wheel guard coverage you must view the tyre from the vertical, horizontal & longitudinal planes.

OK...  a lot of porridge.... Even has my local tech`s scratching their heads as to what a buggy a la Manx style requires to comply... spats, full additional mud guards or what. It`s the 150mm above wheel centre line that raises the questions. (Hope to have an answer that does not mean creating fibreglass additions to the rear existing wheel guards)...

Beach Buggy Engine and Exhaust Help / Oil pump cover plate
« on: June 16, 2018, 04:28:46 PM »
Anyone know if the "special" nuts securing the cover in place are available anywhere?

The nuts with the exposed "O" ring on one face. These sealed the holes the studs protrude through perfectly.

(Not meaning "Dowty" seals here_.

Parts Wanted / steering column inner shaft
« on: June 14, 2018, 11:07:42 AM »
Does anyone have a Beetle steering column inner shaft going spare? (The version with the collapsible section at bottom end). Needs to be straight  ;D   Postage to DL5 5QB also (South West Durham).

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