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July 21, 2018, 08:38:37 PM

BIRTH OF A BUGGY CONTINUED

This is a discussion for the topic BIRTH OF A BUGGY CONTINUED on the board Members Buggies.

Author Topic: BIRTH OF A BUGGY CONTINUED  (Read 18901 times)

this user is offline Paul1953

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Reply #225 on: April 29, 2018, 07:45:13 AM
And all you need for the simple process of adjusting the link pins. (Just noticed from the photo I haven`t replaced the grease nipples).



this user is offline Paul1953

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Reply #226 on: July 17, 2018, 12:16:21 PM
Ok.... for me the jury is in.... Sticking with Pertonix ignition... I can see no reason why this should not run "for ever" and as far as repo contact breakers and condensers are concerned this module set is a simple but brilliant option.
(If anyone knows where I can get a contact breaker set and condenser that is robust please let me know as VW used them for decades on millions of cars).

Here are pictures of my Pertronix "test station" which worked a treat, cost me nothing and I now know beyond any doubt that the module is functioning perfectly.

I can see why there is so much negative comment on the use of these units but I am convinced this is down to installation and associated components. I will go into this in detail as I would not attempt to fit one of these without a load of other checks being done with great care prior to attaching any of the two wires first. Not difficult but will take a bit of writing up.




Inside distributor





Light illuminated in photo but is flashing on and off as the engine rotates




this user is offline Paul1953

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Reply #227 on: July 17, 2018, 12:33:10 PM
A quick disclaimer before I continue with this..... Should you attempt this checking of a Pertronix module, and any one can.. you literally just need a low wattage 12 volt bulb, a 12v battery and a few lengths of wire, please please read what I write more than once. Scribble down the connections. Check at least three times that you have scribbled down correctly. Put all wires in place and check 3 times you have them connected correctly... I don`t want any-one to pop 200 worth of gear. ;-)up ;-)up 
Petronix Ignitor 1 is the basic on off switching module with magnet rotor (Hall Effect). This one is the original of course and will either work or if you "pop it" it will not and it is scrap.
Petronix Ignitor 2 is updated from 1 in that Pertronix state this one will adjust for dwell automatically. (Don`t worry about what dwell is just note it is desirable). This module also is supposed to have resistance to incorrect wiring of the two wires and less prone to failure if the ignition is left switched on without engine running.

I believe you can tell the difference between version 1 & 2 by module colour. That is 1 is a black casing & 2 is a red casing. (I cannot guarantee this is factual).

Petronix Ignitor 3.... Only for 8 cylinder motors.


this user is offline Paul1953

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Reply #228 on: July 17, 2018, 06:06:31 PM
Here is what to attach where.

Note I have used a separate battery to provide a known good positive supply and a known good ground with the link for ground being made directly to the module metal base. Turned the engine over with the plugs removed and no feed to coil. (This way the distributor ignitor rotor is not spinning so fast that the bulb flashes too quickly to see how the module cuts off and back on.

When you first connect up the bulb can either be on or off depending where the magnets in the rotor are. Don`t leave all powered up without the engine running just as a precaution. It`s unlikely the "duty cycle" of the module will be 100%.



this user is offline Paul1953

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Reply #229 on: July 18, 2018, 03:05:34 PM
Ok... Here we go... Old school views & old school methods. If you want to fit a Pertronix Ignitor you should do some ground work first so that it works first time. You will have come across many times on the forum of the statement that a good earth is vital in car electrics and it is. However, and I came across a statement on P`s website, that nearly all of the returned units that owners thought did not work were fine and that nearly all cases proved to be insufficient positive voltage. That surprised me a bit as I thought it would be 50\50 + & - issues. Anyway step back even further.

The "engine" for the ignitor is the coil. Even for standard points system you need a coil in good order. A weak one will give you all sorts of issues. I prefer oil filled coils. All high voltage transformers, coils and condensers were oil filled. This was for cooling. (Oil plays an important part in cooling even in a air cooled motor by transferring heat generated in the cylinder).

How do you know if your coil is good or weak... Old school test..... disconnect all leads from B+, - & coil HT lead. Preferably remove coil to a bench.

Use a 12 volt battery and connect the negative of battery to negative tag on coil. Connect a lead to the positive side of battery but not yet to B+ of coil. You now need to have a ground, (earth connection available for the high tension side) so run a lead from neg of battery to something metallic to mimic the car earth. (I don`t like using the battery neg post).   Shove a high tension lead into the coil top making sure the lead is tight & secure. Connect a spark plug to lead. (Use rubber glove here as believe me if the spark jumps through you it gives a hefty jolt).

In one hand hold the positive wire ready to briefly touch the coil B+ In the other hand touch the end of the spark plug to your mimic negative earth point. Be prepared not to flinch next. Briefly, but firmly, touch the B+ coil terminal with the positive lead. You should have a big spark at the plug. If the spark is weak then the coil is not up to scratch so replace it.

What`s happening here..... Inside the coil you have a winding of wire where the two ends are B+ and negative. Within this coil there is another winding of wire but it has many more turns. One end is a negative and the other your high tension positive. Because the inner winding has more turns you are inducing a voltage in this which instead of being 12 volts will be in the region of 15,000 volts in a good coil. What you are doing by touching the B+ briefly is mimicing the action of the distributor points which is just a simple switch.

Right your coil is a good one but sadly this is just the start.

(As an aside, whilst we are on about old school checks, it`s simple to check a condenser on the distributor which is running a set of points. An iffy condenser will give hesitation on running the motor. When you know your coil is good rotate the distributor until the heel of the moving part of the points is not on a lobe of the shaft. Using a screwdriver open the Point`s quickly and you should see a spark. If the condenser is iffy the spark will look week and be orange coloured. If the condenser is fine you should get a good spark blue-ish in colour).

Back to Pertronix next... ;-)up