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July 21, 2018, 08:38:17 PM

Island Fugitive

This is a discussion for the topic Island Fugitive on the board Members Buggies.

Author Topic: Island Fugitive  (Read 11246 times)

this user is offline fugglededumm

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on: September 08, 2016, 11:36:03 PM
Posted an intro/story so far over on the muddy board http://bajaclub.co.uk/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2404

Got this Fugitive a few weeks ago as a non runner and the aim is to get it MOT'd before the sun stops shining, then look at a new engine in the winter. AFAIK it has never been on the road, registered in 84 on a Q (yay, no emissions!) one MOT in 2014, no tax ever.



Now it is running though missing (new plugs and leads to be installed)  still I needed to get the electrics working, somehow I didn't think that this was going to pass:



So I ripped it out



and built this





Which has nice things like a working horn, indicators and sidelights!
Any market for crusty old original VW speedos?

Next on the MOT agenda is new boots on the front ball joints, a rear number plate light (oh and a number plate!), battery tray, bolt up the speedo sensor and no doubt a few things I will discover on the way. Then insurance and tax - I note a member was talking about his Fug being exempt, must look into that as mine has never had any apparently...









this user is online snoopy

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Reply #1 on: September 09, 2016, 06:26:27 AM
You will have a problem loosing the Q plate as you do not use the original donor chassis at all only the axle, gearbox and engine.


this user is offline fugglededumm

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Reply #2 on: September 09, 2016, 04:28:32 PM
Not sure why you think I want to lose the Q plate ? It's a huge benefit - lots of MOT exemptions to make life easier!


this user is offline Dave DND

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Reply #3 on: September 09, 2016, 04:33:45 PM
Do you still get Tax exemptions with a Q ?    ???


this user is offline fugglededumm

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Reply #4 on: September 09, 2016, 04:54:13 PM
No idea, I know the Q plate represents "year unknown"
"DVLA issues Q registration numbers to vehicles whose age or identity is in doubt."  Have not looked at the whole tax exemption thing, it was first registered in 84.


this user is offline Dave DND

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Reply #5 on: September 09, 2016, 05:15:51 PM
1984 isn`t old enough for tax exemption anyway -  (pre 76)

but as far as I was aware, once a Q is issued, a Q will always remain - along with the requirement to pay tax

Still more than worth it for the other benefits a Q brings though   ;-)up ;-)up


this user is offline fugglededumm

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Reply #6 on: September 09, 2016, 05:22:29 PM
Not sure, is the Q is related to tax?

According to here https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/513151/INF34_080316.pdf If I can prove it was made or built before 76 then I'm in luck. Have to wait and see what the V5 says - when I get it, seller has been a little tardy sending off the paperwork...

Hopefully the member with the tax exempt Fug will chime in!
« Last Edit: September 09, 2016, 05:32:23 PM by fugglededumm »


this user is online snoopy

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Reply #7 on: September 09, 2016, 07:39:52 PM
your problem will be Alan Arnold did not start UVA up until 1981 so the fugitive will not be older than the company. a 1500 engine or smaller gets you the cheaper tax rate as I pay 235 on my 2L buggy.

As Dave says there are some advantages to a Q  but you still expensive road tax.


this user is offline fugglededumm

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Reply #8 on: September 11, 2016, 12:22:57 AM
 Back on the re-build - or at least the MOT trail..
So the new lower ball joint boots are on.
10 mins jack up, axle stands,  remove the wheels
10 mins ball joint removal
30 secs replace boots
2 bloody hours to get the fiddly little spring holders on the bottom of the boots grrrr...! (ok so that included 10 mins internet looking for an easy way - there isn't one!)



this user is online snoopy

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Reply #9 on: September 11, 2016, 07:59:50 AM
Small cable ties are easier if your boots have the flat sprung steel coil retainers, the ciircular coil spring type go on easily.


this user is offline fugglededumm

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Reply #10 on: September 25, 2016, 03:57:44 PM
Lack of updates due to switching to BT for broadband- which they helpfully had existing supplier turn off on the 13th Sept... but 13 days later still have not connected me- though they did manage to delete the phone number we've had for 8 years  >:(

Anyway, all was going well until I got to replacing the steering disc -having binned the red ring of death. Noticed that the steering was almost impossible to turn to the left (I have only driven this into the garage!). After some dismantling and head scratching it turns out that the upper ball joint was not indexed correctly being some 30degs out.  This is what it looks like if you do that:



So out with that and in with a new First Line one from xxx on ebay - that despite being major FL distributors had described it as fitting Beetle 65-75. But it was 5mm to short when pressed in. Xxx said it was my fault for believing them and I should have checked the FL catalogue  ???.
So pressed that back out and got one from the ever so helpful B&B on ebay who can accurately describe parts!  :)

Then I decided to install the Acewell speed sensor inside the front drum. AKA "can of worms" -



Inside the Brake Cylinder, even the pipe was clogged with rust and crap.



Rusty springs, uneven wear on the  pads due to the brake cylinder being full of rusty crap, wheel bearings siezed - and of course the other side was the same with the added benefit of a siezed steering ball joint.
Off to JK for parts for complete brake overhaul. Backplates into the electrolysis bath ready for some Hamerite.

Speedo install looks good though! (before brake parts replacement)



Gold plated battery tray (actually stainless dishwasher part)



So what's the bet that the rear brakes are in the same shape, ie not going to pass an MOT -  Time for large hub nut removal!

« Last Edit: September 25, 2016, 04:00:01 PM by fugglededumm »


this user is online snoopy

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Reply #11 on: September 25, 2016, 07:01:10 PM
All ways worth a look at the brakes for peace of mind as they are important, along with steering and suspension all safety related.


this user is offline fugglededumm

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Reply #12 on: October 05, 2016, 03:28:42 PM
All the front brakes and crusty ball joints replaced.
Discovered the return and main spring were reversed in the LHS front brake so that along with the wonky upper joint tells me a lot about the skills of the last person that messed with the car .- Though I have seen another pic of the brake springs the wrong way round - is it a screw up or a "known mod". A bit worrying that it apparently had an MOT 230 miles ago... Borrowed some beefy kit to take the rear hubs off for brake inspection.

On to changing the seat as I refuse to drive anywhere with the neck breaker GRP seats currently in it. Bought a nice fleabay polyprop seat but that needs the steering wheel moving fwd and angled and the gear shift moving 13cm left. Nothing simple!

I have decided to install the MX5 steering column that I have handy - so some of those nice electrics will get re-done for that - just need a wheel and boss to fit. The column UJ should mate nicely with the existing shaft.

I want to move the gear shift over rather than up to clear the seat - I have an idea of how to do it but input welcome!



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Reply #13 on: October 05, 2016, 04:31:00 PM
I would hazard a guess that a simple cut move left and weld would do the gear shift the rear coupling wil take a bit of deflection or you could just replace it with a uj so alignment does not matter
Personally move it first and try it out.


this user is offline fugglededumm

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Reply #14 on: October 05, 2016, 06:08:39 PM
Not sure if a UJ would work as the shaft would be angled going into the box. Depends on the amount of play I guess. I cant figure out if a double UJ would work or not - probably ok at small angles.
My idea was a flat vertical side linkage to the new stick from the old one that was vertical so each end rotates L/R  for side to side but not fore/aft so it could push + pull into gear (I have a second stick and box set up thanks to other generous IOW Sandrailer)