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March 07, 2021, 01:38:38 AM

Determining endfloat with no flywheel

This is a discussion for the topic Determining endfloat with no flywheel on the board Beach Buggy Engine and Exhaust Help.

Author Topic: Determining endfloat with no flywheel  (Read 1513 times)

this user is offline ben_w

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on: February 23, 2013, 03:21:22 PM
Guys,

Ill like to be able to tell if this 1500 case i have is any good or if its likely to need some work. It came with no flywheel so i couldnt tell if it had any endfloat. Im sure there is a way to tell though once the case is apart, which it is. I just cant remember it....!

Also, to determine if the crank needs any work, is it just a case of measuring the journals and seeing if they are still within tolerances?

Thanks.


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this user is offline Manxdavid

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Reply #1 on: February 23, 2013, 03:30:06 PM
Best you can do is to check that the flywheel-end main bearing hasn't been 'floating' back and forward in the case, check that the dowel hole in the back of the bearing hasn't 'ovalled' which is a sure sign of movement. If the crank journals are smooth with no scoring and the old shells aren't down to the copper backing the they're usually OK but checking with a micrometer's best.
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this user is offline chrisbarker

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Reply #2 on: February 23, 2013, 03:30:48 PM
can you not measure it of the front pulley as still connected to crank ;)
the arc built by Amateurs,the titanic built by professionals nuff said


this user is offline Manxdavid

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Reply #3 on: February 23, 2013, 03:31:45 PM
can you not measure it of the front pulley as still connected to crank ;)

No, that doesn't work.
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this user is offline chrisbarker

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Reply #4 on: February 23, 2013, 03:33:56 PM
can you not measure it of the front pulley as still connected to crank ;)

No, that doesn't work.
fair enough but why not :)
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this user is offline Manxdavid

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Reply #5 on: February 23, 2013, 03:38:54 PM
Because end float is set at with shims between the flywheel and the front main bearing. The crank is can move back and forwards by about 1/4" with the flywheel off. Excessive end float on an old engine is caused by the front (ie flywheel end) main bearing moving back and forwards in the case. They 'hammer' themselves loose after years of (ab)use.
Photos printed on genuine ILFORDŽ paper.

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this user is offline ben_w

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Reply #6 on: February 23, 2013, 03:44:09 PM
David,

Thanks for that. I shall check the main front bearing for the bits you mentioned. To be honest, the inside of the engine looked pretty good. The shells looked ok and i couldnt see or feel any scoring on the crank. Would it be worth replacing them anyways or if the appear ok, leaving them?

The crank is going to need a little work anyway as the brass dizzy/fuel pump drive wheel is shot, so thats coming off and getting replaced. The barrels and pistons look ok, with no scoring etc.

Tempted to rebuild it and see if can get it running!


6 Pots...stuff your bhp, torque is king

Green Sidewinder with a 6 pot lump


this user is offline chrisbarker

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Reply #7 on: February 23, 2013, 03:44:27 PM
thank you now i under stand ,so if the flywheel was on and engine in car then you could check from pulley?
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this user is offline Peter

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Reply #8 on: February 23, 2013, 03:57:46 PM
Quote
thank you now i under stand ,so if the flywheel was on and engine in car then you could check from pulley?

In theory, Yes Chris.

Though the drag that can be imparted by the gearbox input shaft could be misleading, also the input shaft
could interfere with the float by restricting it at the root of the flywheel bolt.

Ideally, and to be sure, this should be done with the engine not fitted to a gearbox.

Peter

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this user is offline Hunter

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Reply #9 on: February 23, 2013, 05:37:13 PM
David,

Thanks for that. I shall check the main front bearing for the bits you mentioned. To be honest, the inside of the engine looked pretty good. The shells looked ok and i couldnt see or feel any scoring on the crank. Would it be worth replacing them anyways or if the appear ok, leaving them?

The crank is going to need a little work anyway as the brass dizzy/fuel pump drive wheel is shot, so thats coming off and getting replaced. The barrels and pistons look ok, with no scoring etc.

Tempted to rebuild it and see if can get it running!

Ben do it  ;)

Great experience and priceless to be honest...

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If you can't eat it or play with it, just pee on it and walk away.


this user is offline ben_w

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Reply #10 on: February 23, 2013, 06:23:27 PM
Yes boss!!


6 Pots...stuff your bhp, torque is king

Green Sidewinder with a 6 pot lump


this user is offline farmer rob

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Reply #11 on: February 23, 2013, 06:57:23 PM
Hi Ben, You can bring your pile of bit's around to mine and I can go through them with you and find out whats good and what needs reconditioning

 Rob


this user is offline Hunter

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Reply #12 on: February 23, 2013, 07:13:34 PM
Hi Ben, You can bring your pile of bit's around to mine and I can go through them with you and find out whats good and what needs reconditioning

 Rob

See...
See...
Robs been here 10mins and already you got help to get things sorted ben.

H
Started with a LWB mk1 RAT
Now running SWB CTR
(lwb Californian skooby powered in the wings)

Handle every stressful situation like a dog.
If you can't eat it or play with it, just pee on it and walk away.


this user is offline ben_w

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Reply #13 on: February 23, 2013, 07:16:52 PM
Cheers Rob I might just do that!!

You around tomorrow at all?


6 Pots...stuff your bhp, torque is king

Green Sidewinder with a 6 pot lump


this user is offline farmer rob

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Reply #14 on: February 23, 2013, 08:11:48 PM
I'll be about Ben

 Rob