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September 18, 2020, 03:34:03 PM

Wheel wobble HELP

This is a discussion for the topic Wheel wobble HELP on the board Beach Buggy Rolling Chassis Help.

Author Topic: Wheel wobble HELP  (Read 2982 times)

this user is offline snoopy

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Reply #135 on: September 12, 2020, 03:35:32 PM
4 long straight rods, timber or anything like tied horizontal on the wheels gives an easy visual alignment and toe in/out can be measured on the rods past the body line using the wheel diameter for measuring points.


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Reply #136 on: September 12, 2020, 04:24:39 PM
I see what you mean Snoopy, once i find suitable items i'll check it. Done the string method and steering is a lot better, drives straight and tracks really well but that shake is still there so got to be rim or rims now so on the look out for 2 or a set i suppose. Doing my head in tbh.


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Reply #137 on: September 12, 2020, 06:20:57 PM
Have you tried 4 axle stands 2 behind the buggy and 2 in front, tie string from front too rear now assuming the rear wheels are correct measure from centre of each spindle/ drive shaft too the string then measure rear string and front string gap.
Rear string gap and front string gap should be equal also spindle too string each side should be equal and rear shaft too string should be equal each side.
Now you can measure from front of rim edge too string and rear edge of front rim too string too check tracking and alignment in relationship to rear wheels.
Hope this makes sense but trust me it works as good as any lasers. Ther are many other methods with string for more accurate alignment of rear wheels but this is good enough for a road car.
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Reply #138 on: September 12, 2020, 08:15:02 PM
Have you tried 4 axle stands 2 behind the buggy and 2 in front, tie string from front too rear now assuming the rear wheels are correct measure from centre of each spindle/ drive shaft too the string then measure rear string and front string gap.
Rear string gap and front string gap should be equal also spindle too string each side should be equal and rear shaft too string should be equal each side.
Now you can measure from front of rim edge too string and rear edge of front rim too string too check tracking and alignment in relationship to rear wheels.
Hope this makes sense but trust me it works as good as any lasers. Ther are many other methods with string for more accurate alignment of rear wheels but this is good enough for a road car.
[/quote

Exactly what i did today apart from tying the string to the rear tins as only got 2 stands. Every thing on the rear was aligned to spec by 4 wheel alignment and seems to still be fine as nothing has been touched since. All measures out equal within a mm so rear is fine. Strings to the front tied to stands today through the centre of the hub, all equal there too and checked the alignment.  Showed up some serious issues with it. Seems if you don't check and take it for granted they are level you chase it around. Found the left wheel was actually 1mm toe out and drivers was about 9mm toe in but when measured across the tread of the tyre front and rear to centre of tread it was 3mm toe in but all to the left so scuffing. Sorted now and drives a lot better, 2-3mm toe in achieved by measuring rim front and rear to string and adjusting to 1mm of toe in each side to give a total of 2-3mm toe in over the pair, measured and double checked before and after locking the rods up, still has equal lock just shakes still and feels worse on left bends even if i swap wheels over side to side, still the same. Lucky for me new tyres have centre paint lines on them and they were still clearly visible so ideal for doing that. I tried a different set of wheels and tyres before and made no difference so if its not that who knows!
I can take the wheel to a place local to get it checked and straightened but after i have the engine rebuilt now as that decided to do a main today :(


this user is online Manxdavid

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Reply #139 on: September 13, 2020, 03:35:21 PM
Out of interest what do people set the rear tracking to, not that there's much adjustment on it anyway? I was taught that they should be set to toe out slightly so that when under power the wheels would drive themselves to a 'straight ahead' position, but I've been told both on here and on Facebook in the past that I'm all kinds of wrong and that they should be set to toe in, which makes no sense to me :-\

I always just set them in the centre of the slots, split the difference, I've never had handling problems that weren't the fault of my own driving ;D
« Last Edit: September 13, 2020, 03:37:06 PM by Manxdavid »
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this user is offline Speedy

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Reply #140 on: September 13, 2020, 05:30:34 PM
Out of interest what do people set the rear tracking to, not that there's much adjustment on it anyway? I was taught that they should be set to toe out slightly so that when under power the wheels would drive themselves to a 'straight ahead' position, but I've been told both on here and on Facebook in the past that I'm all kinds of wrong and that they should be set to toe in, which makes no sense to me :-\

I always just set them in the centre of the slots, split the difference, I've never had handling problems that weren't the fault of my own driving ;D

Personally I would set them straight so as to toe in under load because under some spirited braking they will toe out and make the rear of the car nervous just my thoughts, any toe out front or rear will make the car unstable.
As you say not much adjustment anyway. In the next month or so wife's buggy will be on floor so gonna start looking at castor camber etc I don't like understeer   bleugh
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Reply #141 on: September 13, 2020, 06:43:33 PM
agree with David VW had them towing out very slightly so they aligned when under power but set straight works fine, fitting wider tyres in theory should pull the wheels in a fraction more with the applied leverage but the only movement is on the gearbox mounts and torsion bar rubbers.


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Reply #142 on: September 13, 2020, 07:48:03 PM
I'll have to dig out the alignment sheet at some point and see, don't know off top of my head, least of my worries now anyway as engine spat its dummy out so not going to worry about wheel alignment until its running again. While it sits on the drive crying i'm taking the front wheel to be checked and straightened if needed and re done in chrome powder coat unless they are gone past repairable then i'll have to get a new pair and powder coat those to match the rears, never ending and when i'm looking to move house not really the right time to break


this user is offline PhillipM

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Reply #143 on: September 15, 2020, 12:44:47 PM
Rears on the rail are toed in considerably for rear end stability, like the majority of road cars. Toe out under heavy braking in the wet is great if you like replacing your underwear often, I guess.
 I run 3mm of static toe-in per side.
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Reply #144 on: September 15, 2020, 03:53:28 PM
All my old manuals are packed away on the loft. Does anyone have documentary proof of what VW actually recommend for rear and front toe?
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Reply #145 on: September 15, 2020, 05:58:33 PM




this user is offline cunningstunt

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Reply #146 on: September 15, 2020, 06:11:07 PM
Mine is -0.08 rear toe in both & camber 0.03 R and 0.05 L according to the print out i got but i've moved them since 2015 but marked and put back in place so they might be the same but near enough i think.


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Reply #147 on: September 15, 2020, 08:15:06 PM



Thanks, great information but as I always thought, there's a great deal of leeway built into the settings so that they're actually not that finicky to set up. They were designed in the days before lazer alignment and dynamic balancing etc.
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Reply #148 on: September 15, 2020, 09:42:32 PM
They might as well put the tolerances +- 1 inch  ;D ;D ;D ;D