Wiring route on GP

[phillmore]

I have got to the point where the shell is about to be bolted back to the restored floorpan, but when I bought the GP mk3 about 7 years ago as a basket case, there was nothing left of wiring.
Before bolting the shell to the floor, I thought to ask people where the wiring harness runs through from front to back?
I will have side pods back on the buggy, but there are no obvious holes to suggest a route out through the sides.
The buggy will have the most basic wiring needs but does run an alternator. I have a complete harness taken from a 73 beetle to use as a diner which is in clean un-messed condition.
What do you all suggest or recommend?
Thanks,
Phillmore

[snoopy]

turn it upside down and fibreglass a tube ( plumbing plastic stuff or alike) along under the rh body lip and 4 short ones across under the rear to hold the rear lights and engine loom

[phillmore]

Your suggestion may well be the route I take but I guess the tube would need to be around 30mm to pass the stock loom through. I have repairs to complete on the shell, so will take the opportunity to put guide tubes in.

[Roadrunner]

There are tubes glassed in all the buggies sold by FF Buggies, also extra structural support added to the rears.

[phillmore]

That’s superb - thank you. Next dry day, I will flip my shell for the first time and start looking into adding tubes. This is very inspiring to get me onto the next part of my GP restoration or resurrection. I now have more questions but will start discussion in the body section.

[Doon L001]

If you can use smooth bore tube like plumbing pipe rather than the flexible corrugated pipe it makes getting an extra cable through a bit easier although if there's lots of curved then you have to go flexi.

You could put a bit of string through while it's laid out straight before glassing in to use as a pull through.

One other tip, if you think you need one tube put 2 in as they're easy to add with the tub off, much harder on a built up car b

[phillmore]

I think the GP is relatively straight along the side; I just have to consider where the side pods secure on the front and rear inner arches.

[Gogsie]

I’m not sure if this is common but I routed my wiring loom through the transmission tunnel on my GP mk1 rebuild. Very straight forward and easy to do.

[Manxdavid]

Are you sure that your body doesn't already have tubes or mouldings in place under the sides, I've never come across a GP that didn't have them. For other parts of the body these tabs that take cable zip ties are useful. I usually secure with Araldite though, it's stronger that the sticky tabs that they come with.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/2-way-adhesive-base-natural-25-x-25mm-pack-of-100/38890?tc=RT6&ds_kid=92700048793290388&ds_rl=1249401&gclid=CjwKCAjwxLH3BRApEiwAqX9arVrBJK1ySlvdBZgwu8VUXN4ucEt7iN3GtTBY_wo3QCfXnp0QjrNrIBoCuz8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

[snoopy]

Had to do the GP I just refurbished it had no tubes and corrugated cardboard in for strengthening so put tubes over that. The side pods go nowhere near the tub at the top so plenty of room.
string through first is a good idea especially if you use corrugated and go the full length shaped to the body
.
Through the tunnel is fine I did the Jas like that so the wiring is hidden only problem is if I need the body off I will have to cut the loom front and rear to fit multi plugs or strip all the wiring out of the tub rather than just unbolt from the pan and lift it off complete.

[Doon L001]

That string idea I used when feeding cable in my IT life. If you have a path by the tube you can even pull a thin piece of cable and bring it back tight next to the tube, crimp the ends together and you have permanent pull through.

I haven't bothered as I have extra tubing fitted and a really good cable pull through in my garage toolkit

[phillmore]

Thanks all. Manx David - there wasn’t one on the passenger side where I had to carry out repairs to a split down the side, but I have not looked at the drivers side yet. Job for the morning.