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September 19, 2020, 01:22:02 PM

urethane beam bushes

This is a discussion for the topic urethane beam bushes on the board Beach Buggy Rolling Chassis Help.

Author Topic: urethane beam bushes  (Read 1018 times)

this user is offline johnbrunt

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Reply #15 on: June 06, 2020, 09:05:22 AM
the front beam was new ...just had no outer bearings for some reason -  it was also lhd- which meant i had to swap the steering damper mount round ....and it currently has no bump stop - so need to add that to things to do ....

this user is offline snoopy

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Reply #16 on: June 06, 2020, 12:03:27 PM
ball joints do not need bump stops as you have the rubber on the shock piston and on a beetle the anti roll bar after that the joints will stop moving,  on link pin it is only the torsion bars that stop the suspension moving up until the shocks hit end of travel

this user is offline Flags

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Reply #17 on: June 06, 2020, 09:18:00 PM
I think he means steering stops.

this user is offline PhillipM

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Reply #18 on: June 07, 2020, 02:29:25 PM
Honestly urethane, delrin, brass/bronze are all pretty sh.. compared to the needle bearings for both normal lifespan and ride/handling.
 The only reason I use delrin or blended bushes is because offroading hard brinells OE needle bearings from the impacts, you'd have to go a lot bigger than the beam to fit suitable needles to cope with it - but the plain bearings are a downgrade otherwise.
One of them mucky ones. Sorry.

this user is offline johnbrunt

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Reply #19 on: June 08, 2020, 09:21:27 PM
I think he means steering stops.

i did - sorry

this user is offline cunningstunt

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Reply #20 on: June 21, 2020, 11:43:45 AM
I fitted the Promax poly bushes and used the correct lube on them. Test fitted all before installing to the beam. all was good, everything was free and no play so completed the instal and removed the thin leaves in the process.
Top was easy to do and after test fitting the trailing arm it was still free and moved nicely.
Bottom was not so. You have to drive the inner bush in until you feel it slightly hit the 3 dimples in the beam. Did this and then fitted the outer. Test fitted the trailing arm on the bottom and tight as and would not go in fully. Took it all out again and measured again where the dimples were, checked on the drift i was using and took 5mm off so the inner was away from the dimples and fitted the outer again and tried the trailing arm. Same issue and when i took it all out again the were deep marks on the inner where it hits the dimples. What appears to happen is when you instal the trailing arm and the grub screw it pushes the inner in to the dimples that then restricts the moment hence making it stiff and it will not return when compressed resulting in no suspension travel up or down, it just goes down and stays there.
2 options. 1 was to take it all to bits again and dremmel the parts that are marked from the dimples and align them back in the same place and hope it all works or 2, just take them out and fit all as it was in stock form except the inners are now nylon bushes not 2 part brass and bakelite. Same way of measuring to where the dimples are and drifted in slowly until you can hear the noise change then stop!
Outer were put in the freezer and went in perfect with a large socket as a drift. New grease seals on each tube, new grease nipples installed.
Filled with grease and all back together and perfect.
Moral of the story really is, " Don't mess with years of research and testing"
Promax set sits in the garage but now i know how to rebuild a beam, set the camber and roughly get the tracking right.