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July 07, 2020, 06:08:28 AM

GP Mk 1 rebuild

This is a discussion for the topic GP Mk 1 rebuild on the board Members Buggies.

Author Topic: GP Mk 1 rebuild  (Read 4378 times)

this user is offline Guy

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Reply #45 on: December 05, 2019, 06:24:29 PM
Itís had the beam cut and turned on the lower axle and some leaves removed from the upper axle. It was done before I had it but I understand it works quite well.  ;-)up


this user is offline Guy

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Reply #46 on: December 13, 2019, 05:08:59 PM
Beam dismantled and cleaned ready for rebuild. The beam has had some of the leaves removed from the upper tube so it should be a bit softer as advised. The cut and turn looked a little suspect with regards to the welding so ground it down and found that the weld pretty much did not penetrate the beam in a lot of places.





Torsion arms, spindles and track rods all cleaned up. Pretty unpopular as I am storing it all in the airing cupboard to stop it flash rusting



this user is offline snoopy

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Reply #47 on: December 13, 2019, 05:25:42 PM
A good job you stripped the beam


this user is offline Guy

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Reply #48 on: December 13, 2019, 05:36:51 PM
Very much so. You can actually feel it flexing. Amazed it stayed together to be honest.


this user is offline Merscury

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Reply #49 on: December 13, 2019, 06:40:10 PM
Hi Guy, your front wheels sticking out has a more to do with the offset that comes with the 8" rims and also the slightly wider rubber that's required on an 8" rim.   The 8" revolutions usually have a negative offset of somewhere between minus 5 and minus 20, if you were to change to a 7" or 6" rim they tend to have a positive offset somewhere between plus 10 and plus 15, coupled with slightly narrower tyres say 205 or 195 it would pull them in 30 or more millimeters, here is a photo of mine with 6" revolutions with a +10mm offset and 195 tyres. They stick under the front wing by about 5mm so 205s would be flush.                                                                                                                                 

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« Last Edit: December 13, 2019, 06:57:09 PM by Merscury »
Have fun. Be lucky


this user is offline Guy

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Reply #50 on: December 14, 2019, 09:48:19 PM
Thatís a great looking buggy. Thanks for the info on the wheels. I think I will probably get some down the line. I donít dislike the wide fronts but I do like the tuck your buggy has.

A bit more prep work today. Axle tubes now cleaned and ready for a light blast and paint. May powder coat these a satin black. Also cleaned up the steering box. The oil in side is well past itís best so I am draining that. I think itís a good box, a little tight in one place but as soon as I move the output shaft itís is then free. Just adjustment I think.



this user is offline Guy

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Reply #51 on: January 06, 2020, 06:14:45 PM
Itís been a busy few weeks so little actual works been done but I got a lot planned and sorted.

This front beam  :-\ and wheel combination. The wheels really stick out from the front arches a lot.  New wheels would have been the easy solution but I am so far in having had new wheel bolts and spigots made to make the set up safe I need to see it through.

The J8 revolution wheels I have only have a offset of 10mm so all that extra rim added is really just sitting out into the arches and beyond.  I can machine a bit off the mounting face of the wheel but nothing significant.  The option is to narrow the beam.  Measured, measured, beam in and body on. Will the wheels rub on the tub? Everything I have says it will clear, if it doesnít I can use a smaller tyre as these are 225/60/15 so pretty big.  I was going to play it safe and take 2Ē out but decided on a 4Ē cut to pull the wheels in. I still think it will overhang the arch by about an inch.



The beam was measured and measured before being broken down into its component pieces. Here it is just laid out.  New inner bushes are being made from Delrin. I canít get the old ones to tap out so itís going to be a trip to the workshop to use a big press. Should be welded up this week before the new bushes go in. Torsion arms and track rods to shorten too.

These were a bit of a pig to get off.



Other job was the fuel tank.  Previous owner had simply taken a hammer to it to gain clearance.  Cut outs done, templates made ready for welding.


Does the breather tube work in this location given the tank is mounted sloping forwards?





this user is offline Guy

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Reply #52 on: January 06, 2020, 06:21:47 PM
Rear brake components were stripped and cleaned ready for the backing plates to go for blasting and powder coat.



this user is offline snoopy

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Reply #53 on: January 06, 2020, 08:17:15 PM
if you fit a vented filler cap you can ditch the vent pipe.


this user is offline Guy

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Reply #54 on: January 06, 2020, 08:41:56 PM
Great. I have not ordered one yet so will do that.


this user is offline IDA

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Reply #55 on: January 08, 2020, 05:01:52 PM
If you have not yet drilled the bars its best!! to weld the Torsion Bars ends up it helps hold them come time to pillar drill them, and a small? torsion Leave is good for tapping out old bushes out the beam,,
I do not speak English well, please kindly give your patience to my wordy posts try to understand my words ... if there is anything wrong in my word's, do not take offense because what you see maybe not my true meanings.,,, Nuclear Convoy


this user is offline Guy

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Reply #56 on: January 11, 2020, 07:05:59 PM
The old bushes and the new ones we made from Delrin.





Fuel tank needed to be modified to clear the bonnet. Previously it had just been mullered with a hammer. It still looks ugly but will look much better after paint


Front beam, cut -4Ē and jigged ready for welding. Measured after and we got it within about 1mm of what we calculated.  Not all perfect though. Got in a mess with the sway away adjuster. They are rotated to far round but actually the bottom works really well. You can adjust it on the car, it has a smaller frontal profile and better clearance. The upper adjuster will have to come back out as I canít adjust it on the car.  A real error on my part but not a disaster luckily.




Pedal support plate to match the stamping on the FOC floor pan


Thanks for the tip. The weld really helped


Seat wedges made from 5mm sheet steel, 6 degree incline


Beam clears the body nicely






Certainly a improvement. I think I should still have a decent steering lock if not the full range. Got a final resort option of a smaller side wall if required. Just working on a solution for the steering stops.


How it was before


Seat mounts with adjuster rails still sit nicely in the body. The only way I could get it lower would be to run a fixed seat position


Track rods narrowed by 40mm. Iíll have to see if thatís enough, re tapped the tube M14x1.5 so loads of adjustment available. Once I have confirmed the length is good Iíll make some from stainless without the slot and clamp locking system in favour of a locking nut.


Next jobs
Sort out my mistake with the sway away adjuster
Refurbish the torsion arms
Install bushes and bearings
Seam weld the towers on the beam
Steering stop weld to O/S tower

Chassis
Seat mounts weld in place
Weld in support plate for pedals
Steering stop weld to chassis

Slowly getting there with the usual two or three forward and a step back too.


this user is offline Guy

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Reply #57 on: January 11, 2020, 07:09:06 PM
This is the pedal support plate I was on about



this user is offline Guy

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Reply #58 on: January 12, 2020, 06:03:14 PM
Solution for the RHS steering stop. I nice simple modification of the standard one.




this user is offline Guy

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Reply #59 on: January 12, 2020, 06:15:06 PM
Torsion arm bearing surfaces cleaned up nicely