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May 28, 2020, 03:39:16 AM

acceleration hesitation

This is a discussion for the topic acceleration hesitation on the board Beach Buggy Engine and Exhaust Help.

Author Topic: acceleration hesitation  (Read 714 times)

this user is offline JohnnyV

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Reply #15 on: September 10, 2019, 06:23:49 PM
Great feedback again guys, really appreciate the time and effort of all replies and all advise will be taken on board.

Thanks Merscury for the photo as I will have to make up a pickup for air as have an aftermarket air filter and not sure if I could get a standard oil filled filter on mine and still be able to put on the rear fibreglass cowling cover.

Well after a lot of faffing about and unbolting bits and pieces managed to get the heat risers out to get a better look. The initial bends in the risers made it really difficult to get anything up the pipes to do any good at cleaning.
Drilled into the back of the risers tube to get better access (saw this on a youtube video) which allowed me to drill down the blocked pipework. I picked up a cheap 8mm long drill bit for this and I did really need it as the coke was really compacted and had to literally drill the entire length. The pipework itself is in really good condition so odd it is so blocked.
Pipes now cleaned out and will do a quick patch to cover the hole......welded patch maybe.




this user is offline Peter

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Reply #16 on: September 10, 2019, 06:28:05 PM
Thankyou Mercury, I have swiped a couple of those pictures if that's ok.

I had a look at photos I have stored away and one thing I have used is to make the exhaust path through the manifold a one way thing.

Just as VW do with their Beetle silencers....

I made a thick spacer with a centre hole that doesn't break through, instead the exhaust pulse comes out of one, two, three or all of
the M6 tapped holes by removing the grubs screws, or not! It was just a way for me to experiment with things. An exit tube could
quite easily be installed on the buggy setup and route to the silencer.

I like this one way idea, I think it works well with the differing hole size in the gaskets, the large hole gasket goes at the input end
and the small hole gasket goes at the outlet, the smaller size keeping the exhaust pulse inside the manifold for a longer period and allowing
it to shed its heat.

Here is another example of this one way path being built in, my Beetle has just the same thing built into the silencer,
the exhaust enters the manifold one side and travels through the manifold and out the other side, but instead of going to
the header its routed into the silencer box.

Peter



'We desperately need to bring nature and green, back into contact with people'


this user is offline Peter

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Reply #17 on: September 10, 2019, 06:45:35 PM
Good stuff  ;-)up

I always think this is all quite enjoyable really and you will find things out, try stuff and with some thought,
improve on whats there...

Hopefully all this will help to sort out the issue you have, or at least eliminate a few things along the way.

Peter  :)

'We desperately need to bring nature and green, back into contact with people'


this user is offline Ralphypants

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Reply #18 on: September 11, 2019, 11:27:58 PM
Evening, I had power & response issues with my 2180 & twin 40s , was using the SVDA so I replaced it with a ‘123 tune+’ from Dan Simpson. Using without vacuum & now it goes very well, no flat spots can’t fault it, apart from the price £340 :'(


this user is offline JohnnyV

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Reply #19 on: September 23, 2019, 08:39:23 PM
Quick update..... My heat risers are working great so another box ticked. I Have changed the jets in the carb to the larger one's supplied, and while taking a look at the original solex carb i took off I noticed the new sizes I just fitted are in fact the same size as the solex. Need to get the heat next into the carb but some fabrication needed for that one.
Car starts and idles great but still has a hint of hesitation but much better than before. I do have a Bosch vac carb in good condition to fit so think slowly will get it sorted. Will probably need to get the original solex carb reconditioned as well as I think all issues stem from there when I switched to a repro model.
 May look for a rolling road tune to get the best from the engine although the Engine pulls really well when they foot goes down but there are some issues to be sorted there........tends to wander a bit at the moment..... New thread for that one.  ;-)up










this user is offline Manxdavid

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Reply #20 on: September 25, 2019, 09:09:57 AM
........tends to wander a bit at the moment..... New thread for that one.  ;-)up

First checks are set the tracking to 1/16 to 1/8 toe in and make sure the tyre pressures aren't too high. If you've got big tyres on the rear fit a pair of caster shims (may need longer bolts) behind the bottom axle beam tube.
« Last Edit: September 25, 2019, 09:13:05 AM by Manxdavid »
Photos printed on genuine ILFORD® paper.

"Ah, Beach Buggies, sure, just a quick cheap way of getting a few more years out of a rusty Beetle. You can throw one together in a weekend." anon.


this user is offline JohnnyV

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Reply #21 on: September 25, 2019, 04:22:37 PM
Yes thats a good point and will definitely on my check list. Will have to do some research on the castor shims as not done that before.


this user is offline Manxdavid

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Reply #22 on: September 25, 2019, 06:35:22 PM
Photos printed on genuine ILFORD® paper.

"Ah, Beach Buggies, sure, just a quick cheap way of getting a few more years out of a rusty Beetle. You can throw one together in a weekend." anon.


this user is offline JohnnyV

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Reply #23 on: September 25, 2019, 07:01:40 PM
Thanks  ;-)up thats a good clear video to some i have watched and well worth a try.  ;-)up