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September 21, 2019, 06:21:01 PM

Newby says hi

This is a discussion for the topic Newby says hi on the board Newbie Welcome Area.

Author Topic: Newby says hi  (Read 581 times)

this user is offline ajstephens

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on: June 11, 2019, 01:40:34 PM
Hi new here

Currently gathering parts for a first time SWB build.

Excited to get involved!

Aj


this user is offline paul

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Reply #1 on: June 11, 2019, 02:15:38 PM
Hi, plenty of helpful advice and friendly people on here, you will have your buggy together in no time!  ;-)up


this user is offline snoopy

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Reply #2 on: June 11, 2019, 04:54:48 PM
Welcome, new SWB build from a donor beetle you will need to read the manual and perhaps chat with Paul.


this user is offline pepsi81

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Reply #3 on: June 11, 2019, 06:11:33 PM

Welcome from the north west. As Snoopy says, have a chat with Paul1953 ;-)up


this user is offline dseered

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Reply #4 on: June 11, 2019, 06:12:09 PM
 8) doing the same, gathered some big bits, need lots of smaller ones!


this user is online Hugh

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Reply #5 on: June 11, 2019, 08:46:23 PM
Welcome.

Where are you based ?
Hugh


this user is offline Dave DND

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Reply #6 on: June 12, 2019, 10:13:43 AM
Welcome aboard - looking forward to hearing about the build  ;-)up

Any questions, no matter how daft or repetitive, fire away on here   ;-)up
01803-391680
dave@dndservices.co.uk



this user is offline Paul1953

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Reply #7 on: June 12, 2019, 12:52:03 PM
It`s a hi from me.  ;-)up

Just to be certain.... Are you planning a build on an existing shortened beetle chassis or are you planning to use a donor chassis, cut it, and reweld back together in shortened form?  (Severing & rewelding does require IVA inspection in order for the buggy to be fully road legal).

Either way, with the experience of hindsight, I would opt for a donor post 1965 production. That is to say non-king & link pin front end. This will allow you to source a beetle with existing disk brakes and ball joint suspension. You cannot remove front drums from a k&l suspension and fit standard disc brakes in their place. K&L front beam is different from ball joint version and they are not interchangeable.

Don`t opt for any Beetle pre- 1962 production. (Unlikely as they are few and far between now) Their front end tie rods stub axle & pitman arm taper sockets are different to later years and there is no steering damper.  As Dave says ask any question there are lots of guys here on the forum who will help all they can.


this user is offline ajstephens

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Reply #8 on: June 13, 2019, 09:24:16 AM
Hi again, thanks for the welcome.  :)

South east London based, Greenwich area. Anyone else in the area? I'm an electrical-mechanical engineer so have half an idea what I'm doing. Reading lots of manuals anyway!

Building on an existing shortened chassis with appropriate V5, no donor car just gathering parts for now. Rebuilding a fruity type 4 2.0 and proceeding with a sidewinder tub

When I have a bit more time I'll try and get a build thread together.

Aj


this user is offline Paul1953

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Reply #9 on: June 13, 2019, 12:56:53 PM
You will have no problems with this. I would consider strengthening the offside & nearside floorpan outer "U" channels with square tubing or similar. My only piece of advice is if you source items via fleabay be careful. Awfull lot of total junk on offer. (Ask me how I know this)  ;D


this user is offline ajstephens

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Reply #10 on: June 13, 2019, 01:17:03 PM
You will have no problems with this. I would consider strengthening the offside & nearside floorpan outer "U" channels with square tubing or similar. My only piece of advice is if you source items via fleabay be careful. Awfull lot of total junk on offer. (Ask me how I know this)  ;D

The chassis I have already has 1 inch box section welded around the perphery of the floor pans.

Now just deciding on whether to fit weld in brackets for IRS rear and gearbox I already have, or just save the bother and stick to the swing axle rear end I also have.


this user is offline farmer rob

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Reply #11 on: June 13, 2019, 01:45:15 PM
Welcome to the site ;-)up  A swing axle rear end works fine in a buggy with the heavier type 4 engine but you might have to do a calculation for gear ratio's for what tyre size you are going to use and then work out which gearbox you might need. With swing axle gearbox's there are 3 to choose from

Rob


this user is offline Paul1953

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Reply #12 on: June 14, 2019, 07:39:23 AM
You will have no problems with this. I would consider strengthening the offside & nearside floorpan outer "U" channels with square tubing or similar. My only piece of advice is if you source items via fleabay be careful. Awfull lot of total junk on offer. (Ask me how I know this)  ;D

The chassis I have already has 1 inch box section welded around the perphery of the floor pans.

Now just deciding on whether to fit weld in brackets for IRS rear and gearbox I already have, or just save the bother and stick to the swing axle rear end I also have.

Ask yourself a question and then decide... Why have the US off-road guys stuck with swing axle and king and link pin systems for off-road for so long. (Baja 500 & 1000 for example). It is only in relatively recent years that the us aftermarket has gone crazy with ultra expensive, inovative, suspension conversion parts\kits.  With swing axle\ negative rear camber\light weight body you just have to be careful in the wet and snow. The back wheels can tuck in like crazy if you push it in such conditions. (feel free to ask how I know this   ;D)


this user is offline Roadrunner

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Reply #13 on: June 14, 2019, 02:20:27 PM
IRS is going to help keep the wheels from cambering if you are running the buggy high or low.  Most like a little negative camber when dropping the ride height.  It's more when you raise and get the positive camber things can look a bit off. 


this user is offline chrisbarker

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Reply #14 on: June 28, 2019, 10:45:19 PM
welcome buddy
the arc built by Amateurs,the titanic built by professionals nuff said