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December 17, 2018, 02:39:28 AM

Electronic ignition woes

This is a discussion for the topic Electronic ignition woes on the board Beach Buggy General Help.

Author Topic: Electronic ignition woes  (Read 443 times)

this user is offline Tinybuggy

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on: August 05, 2018, 07:25:18 PM
Do they start to fail if getting hot in this weather? Seemed to be rough yesterday in Manchester yesterday back firing and coughing.

Was alright driving home down the motorway when she was cooler.

Simon
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this user is offline snoopy

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Reply #1 on: August 05, 2018, 08:34:16 PM
As said thinking that may be more fuel and excessive heat than electronics but you never know, try another Manchester cruise and see if it reoccurs.


this user is offline Paul1953

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Reply #2 on: August 06, 2018, 06:30:06 PM
Can I just say my experience with electronic ignition is new. However I have spent a lot of time over the last two weeks investigating the Pertronix system that I have just put back in the distributor following a full engine rebuild.

The module just mimics a set of points switching the negative of the coil. I can see no reason why these systems should not run for mega miles as the module is sealed. If a module fails then it is dead and you would have no ignition full stop. No stuttering, no misfire just a dead ignition.

The other points that I realised whilst working through the system is that you will get misfiring, erratic operation etc if either the negative feed or the positive feed voltage is not a good 12 to 13 volts... ie excellent connections and wiring. Also the coil is crucial. It must be good and have a primary resistance of 3ohms... no less but an actual measure will probably show 3 and a bit on a standard multi meter. Equally important is the secondary winding which should be in the region of 10K ohms. Another thing is the condition of the ignition leads to the plugs. (I have a set of cannons on my engine temporarily. Far too close to leads and the leads would surely become progressively knackered should I run the motor for any length of time.

I do appreciate all this will sound like gobble de gook unless you are into electrics,,,,,   so check all the points I have mentioned first. Take a look at my build thread and I have a sketch on there to show how to be sure the module works using nothing more than a 12 volt battery three wires and a bulb.

Hope this may help in some way ;-)up ;-)up


this user is offline Shaggy

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Reply #3 on: August 06, 2018, 09:29:12 PM
Ive had a pertronix 1in my buggy over 20 years. No issues. Iíve had a coil fail and give me trouble and plugs and leads too.
I'm in my buggy,
It's raining,
I really don't care.


this user is online pepsi81

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Reply #4 on: August 06, 2018, 11:48:39 PM

Check youíve a good earth. Petronix needs a resistance <0.1 ohm.
I had problems, took the distributor out cleaned the area around the block and clamp. No issues since.
Just a suggestion  :-\

Paul


this user is offline Paul1953

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Reply #5 on: August 07, 2018, 07:19:19 AM

Check youíve a good earth. Petronix needs a resistance <0.1 ohm.

This the no 1 thing to check.... Perfect earth not just to the distributor body but to the module base plate also.. ;-)up ;-)up

Ref fuel.... Back in the 60`s & 70`s, when the majority of cars ran single, or if you were lucky twin carbs.....

The summers were nearly always long and hot with `76 being the record breaker.   It was quite common during the hotter periods to suffer from fuel evaporation within the float chamber itself. This would manifest itself particularly on inclines and especially steep banks. The engine would stutter, often cutting out, and would re-start with some cranking of the engine. As things cooled the issue disappeared. I wonder if this summers heat is affecting you.


this user is offline mad4slalom

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Reply #6 on: August 11, 2018, 06:27:29 PM
Can I just say my experience with electronic ignition is new. However I have spent a lot of time over the last two weeks investigating the Pertronix system that I have just put back in the distributor following a full engine rebuild.

The module just mimics a set of points switching the negative of the coil. I can see no reason why these systems should not run for mega miles as the module is sealed. If a module fails then it is dead and you would have no ignition full stop. No stuttering, no misfire just a dead ignition.

The other points that I realised whilst working through the system is that you will get misfiring, erratic operation etc if either the negative feed or the positive feed voltage is not a good 12 to 13 volts... ie excellent connections and wiring. Also the coil is crucial. It must be good and have a primary resistance of 3ohms... no less but an actual measure will probably show 3 and a bit on a standard multi meter. Equally important is the secondary winding which should be in the region of 10K ohms. Another thing is the condition of the ignition leads to the plugs. (I have a set of cannons on my engine temporarily. Far too close to leads and the leads would surely become progressively knackered should I run the motor for any length of time.

I do appreciate all this will sound like gobble de gook unless you are into electrics,,,,,   so check all the points I have mentioned first. Take a look at my build thread and I have a sketch on there to show how to be sure the module works using nothing more than a 12 volt battery three wires and a bulb.

Hope this may help in some way ;-)up ;-)up
hi paul, i fitted petronix last year and the difference was immense in the fact that i was checking and changing points very often,now when i start, as long as all the fuelly bits are right, ie pedal position , choke set if cold etc then, when she fires you can just tell that the spark is a hot and powerful one, whereas with the points it often felt like a weak spark, hard to explain but you can just tell. Also, i have cannons and fitted two ally heat shields to keep the heat from my plug leads, well worth doing .  ,👍


this user is offline Paul1953

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Reply #7 on: August 12, 2018, 08:37:17 AM
Can I just say my experience with electronic ignition is new. However I have spent a lot of time over the last two weeks investigating the Pertronix system that I have just put back in the distributor following a full engine rebuild.

The module just mimics a set of points switching the negative of the coil. I can see no reason why these systems should not run for mega miles as the module is sealed. If a module fails then it is dead and you would have no ignition full stop. No stuttering, no misfire just a dead ignition.

The other points that I realised whilst working through the system is that you will get misfiring, erratic operation etc if either the negative feed or the positive feed voltage is not a good 12 to 13 volts... ie excellent connections and wiring. Also the coil is crucial. It must be good and have a primary resistance of 3ohms... no less but an actual measure will probably show 3 and a bit on a standard multi meter. Equally important is the secondary winding which should be in the region of 10K ohms. Another thing is the condition of the ignition leads to the plugs. (I have a set of cannons on my engine temporarily. Far too close to leads and the leads would surely become progressively knackered should I run the motor for any length of time.

I do appreciate all this will sound like gobble de gook unless you are into electrics,,,,,   so check all the points I have mentioned first. Take a look at my build thread and I have a sketch on there to show how to be sure the module works using nothing more than a 12 volt battery three wires and a bulb.

Hope this may help in some way ;-)up ;-)up
hi paul, i fitted petronix last year and the difference was immense in the fact that i was checking and changing points very often,now when i start, as long as all the fuelly bits are right, ie pedal position , choke set if cold etc then, when she fires you can just tell that the spark is a hot and powerful one, whereas with the points it often felt like a weak spark, hard to explain but you can just tell. Also, i have cannons and fitted two ally heat shields to keep the heat from my plug leads, well worth doing .  ,👍


this user is offline Paul1953

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Reply #8 on: August 12, 2018, 08:47:15 AM
Can I just say my experience with electronic ignition is new. However I have spent a lot of time over the last two weeks investigating the Pertronix system that I have just put back in the distributor following a full engine rebuild.

The module just mimics a set of points switching the negative of the coil. I can see no reason why these systems should not run for mega miles as the module is sealed. If a module fails then it is dead and you would have no ignition full stop. No stuttering, no misfire just a dead ignition.

The other points that I realised whilst working through the system is that you will get misfiring, erratic operation etc if either the negative feed or the positive feed voltage is not a good 12 to 13 volts... ie excellent connections and wiring. Also the coil is crucial. It must be good and have a primary resistance of 3ohms... no less but an actual measure will probably show 3 and a bit on a standard multi meter. Equally important is the secondary winding which should be in the region of 10K ohms. Another thing is the condition of the ignition leads to the plugs. (I have a set of cannons on my engine temporarily. Far too close to leads and the leads would surely become progressively knackered should I run the motor for any length of time.

I do appreciate all this will sound like gobble de gook unless you are into electrics,,,,,   so check all the points I have mentioned first. Take a look at my build thread and I have a sketch on there to show how to be sure the module works using nothing more than a 12 volt battery three wires and a bulb.

Hope this may help in some way ;-)up ;-)up
hi paul, i fitted petronix last year and the difference was immense in the fact that i was checking and changing points very often,now when i start, as long as all the fuelly bits are right, ie pedal position , choke set if cold etc then, when she fires you can just tell that the spark is a hot and powerful one, whereas with the points it often felt like a weak spark, hard to explain but you can just tell. Also, i have cannons and fitted two ally heat shields to keep the heat from my plug leads, well worth doing .  ,👍

Hi.... nice to hear you are a fan of Pertronix. My motor, a 1600 twin port, is up and running hanging from the back of my buggy. It start first time and idles very nicely. Have not yet had it on the road. I considered going back to points and condenser when I first came to start the motor and it was totally dead. Coil problem, not Pertronix. The quality of todays points and condensers can be seen just by looking at them. In years gone by I must have done somewhere in the reason of 50,000 miles in old Beetles. This of course with original parts. You only needed to set the points  once and that was it for thousands of miles. Only needed adjusting when the fibre heel wore down somewhat.

Cannons... I have fitted shielding for the moment but they will have to come off eventually. Need E marked silencer boxes for IVA...  Hope you are having fun with your buggy.. What a summer for on the road. Loved Newquay in the 70`s and plan to re-visit Crantock with mine sometime soon


this user is offline mad4slalom

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Reply #9 on: August 12, 2018, 03:37:04 PM
Can I just say my experience with electronic ignition is new. However I have spent a lot of time over the last two weeks investigating the Pertronix system that I have just put back in the distributor following a full engine rebuild.

The module just mimics a set of points switching the negative of the coil. I can see no reason why these systems should not run for mega miles as the module is sealed. If a module fails then it is dead and you would have no ignition full stop. No stuttering, no misfire just a dead ignition.

The other points that I realised whilst working through the system is that you will get misfiring, erratic operation etc if either the negative feed or the positive feed voltage is not a good 12 to 13 volts... ie excellent connections and wiring. Also the coil is crucial. It must be good and have a primary resistance of 3ohms... no less but an actual measure will probably show 3 and a bit on a standard multi meter. Equally important is the secondary winding which should be in the region of 10K ohms. Another thing is the condition of the ignition leads to the plugs. (I have a set of cannons on my engine temporarily. Far too close to leads and the leads would surely become progressively knackered should I run the motor for any length of time.

I do appreciate all this will sound like gobble de gook unless you are into electrics,,,,,   so check all the points I have mentioned first. Take a look at my build thread and I have a sketch on there to show how to be sure the module works using nothing more than a 12 volt battery three wires and a bulb.

Hope this may help in some way ;-)up ;-)up
hi paul, i fitted petronix last year and the difference was immense in the fact that i was checking and changing points very often,now when i start, as long as all the fuelly bits are right, ie pedal position , choke set if cold etc then, when she fires you can just tell that the spark is a hot and powerful one, whereas with the points it often felt like a weak spark, hard to explain but you can just tell. Also, i have cannons and fitted two ally heat shields to keep the heat from my plug leads, well worth doing .  ,👍
Can I just say my experience with electronic ignition is new. However I have spent a lot of time over the last two weeks investigating the Pertronix system that I have just put back in the distributor following a full engine rebuild.

The module just mimics a set of points switching the negative of the coil. I can see no reason why these systems should not run for mega miles as the module is sealed. If a module fails then it is dead and you would have no ignition full stop. No stuttering, no misfire just a dead ignition.

The other points that I realised whilst working through the system is that you will get misfiring, erratic operation etc if either the negative feed or the positive feed voltage is not a good 12 to 13 volts... ie excellent connections and wiring. Also the coil is crucial. It must be good and have a primary resistance of 3ohms... no less but an actual measure will probably show 3 and a bit on a standard multi meter. Equally important is the secondary winding which should be in the region of 10K ohms. Another thing is the condition of the ignition leads to the plugs. (I have a set of cannons on my engine temporarily. Far too close to leads and the leads would surely become progressively knackered should I run the motor for any length of time.

I do appreciate all this will sound like gobble de gook unless you are into electrics,,,,,   so check all the points I have mentioned first. Take a look at my build thread and I have a sketch on there to show how to be sure the module works using nothing more than a 12 volt battery three wires and a bulb.

Hope this may help in some way ;-)up ;-)up
hi paul, i fitted petronix last year and the difference was immense in the fact that i was checking and changing points very often,now when i start, as long as all the fuelly bits are right, ie pedal position , choke set if cold etc then, when she fires you can just tell that the spark is a hot and powerful one, whereas with the points it often felt like a weak spark, hard to explain but you can just tell. Also, i have cannons and fitted two ally heat shields to keep the heat from my plug leads, well worth doing .  ,👍

Hi.... nice to hear you are a fan of Pertronix. My motor, a 1600 twin port, is up and running hanging from the back of my buggy. It start first time and idles very nicely. Have not yet had it on the road. I considered going back to points and condenser when I first came to start the motor and it was totally dead. Coil problem, not Pertronix. The quality of todays points and condensers can be seen just by looking at them. In years gone by I must have done somewhere in the reason of 50,000 miles in old Beetles. This of course with original parts. You only needed to set the points  once and that was it for thousands of miles. Only needed adjusting when the fibre heel wore down somewhat.

Cannons... I have fitted shielding for the moment but they will have to come off eventually. Need E marked silencer boxes for IVA...  Hope you are having fun with your buggy.. What a summer for on the road. Loved Newquay in the 70`s and plan to re-visit Crantock with mine sometime soon
i am only 10 miles or so from crantock so let me know if you make it to cornwall and would love to hook up for a blast 👍


this user is offline Paul1953

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Reply #10 on: August 12, 2018, 04:25:50 PM
Certainly will